07 cougar 250 pro xs chinewalking ?

I have tried numerous pitches in the Trophy, Tempest, Fury, and Bravo. I have found the Bravos to give the best all around performance. Bravos are designed to run about an inch higher that most applications. I would leave that 28P Bravo on and with the 6 inch slide master, start raising the motor in slow increments (1/4 inch at time). My inner plate is set about 3/4 of an inch higher than my outer plate. This is about 3/4 of an inch higher than set from the factory. At higher level, the Bravo has great hole shot, great grip in turns, loads easily, will break 80 with me fully loaded, and runs 20+ lbs on the water pressure. I had 4 extra PVS holes drilled to help hole shot. When weight is balance perfectly, I get zero chine walk up to 78; it feels like its on a rail. Things happen fast at speed, and Im recommend l vest and kill switch always, but especially when running a new or recently altered set-up. I run a 27 P in the summer for “break neck” holeshot/acceleration, and a 28P in the winter. I turn the 28P over 6000 rpm in the winter. These props are easy to turn and compare to Furys 1 size lower in rpms (27 Fury = 28 Bravo; 26 Fury =27 Bravo).You have a great prop in the 28P Bravo. It is well worth your time to experiment with motor height. You will be impressed!

I have been hearing some good reviews on the Bravo 1xs prop.

plumber, You may have been driving bass boats for decades, though how many BCB models have you driven? You only use a portion of the trim on a BCB and not the whole trim range. Stay under half trim and work your way up to that in small taps or bumps of the trim button. Other brands of boats you usually trim as far as you can and they then are still dragging the hull in the tail while lifting the rear. BCB models use a lot of air compaction for performance and not just water. You have to pack that air and hold it where it performs best. BCB

High CottonOf course! Steering play as in fluid requirements, play in the cylinder itself or bypass of fluids, loose motor mounts increase all the wear and make driving hard, any bolts that are loose, engine mounting bolt and other factors all could play into this. One of the most major factors we find is actual play in the yoke that drives the side steer on the steering cylinder itself. We would replace and find spacers to remove that play where the aluminum to aluminum plate to cylinder caps wears. You can remove those and tap the ends out replacing the bushing spacers. We used poly or nylon spacers and removed excess tolerances ourselves before.