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Shot you an email…… Steve
Just stick a magnet on that bracket and you can determine the steel or aluminum structure. We are not exactly sure which part you are speaking of, and we think it is the pivot on the 20 or 20.5 Gator Mount. If so, then that piece is powder coated aluminum in a casting. You can also replace that pivot bracket easily and they still make the part. It should not be that expensive in relationship to what you are about to undertake. BCB
Thanks for the information. Ill contact my dealer and have them order the part for me. My trolling motor needs to have a few minor repairs and it is time to get my Mercury serviced so this will probably be the best course of action. The least expensive option would be to have the broken part TIG welded. There is a local shop that would be able to do this for a reasonable price (they repaired a crack in my boat last fall for free). However, replacing the part will be best since I need to take my boat to the dealership any way. Thanks, BCH
A troller of that age should not be able to pull down the batteries without tripping a breaker in that time. And if you do not have a breaker then there is no way of knowing. Try figuring out how many amps you are pulling, then there has to be an issue elsewhere if that is not it. BCB
I had a hand control Motorguide on the Baycat I used to have. I hated it. It was okay when it wasnt windy. But when it was windy and you needed to constantly control the boat position…it drove me nuts. All I did was mess with the trolling motor, instead of fishing. I know some folks really like their hand controlled motors though.
I had one on my 97 PII and loved it. I used a ProKontroll extension. I do have foot control now and it is okay as well. SAMRUSH also used hand control as well if I remember, and may still.The hand controll was good for me with the design MG had…a foot operated box for on/off and roller to controll speed. The extension allowed me to stay back during rough water days for better balance, imho.96 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner
I now use a MK 101 hand control with procontrol. Have always used the hand control, comes from the old days of foot controllers always breaking while in a tournament, never have had a problem with hand controls and do no have problems in the wind, guess cause Im familiar with it.BAYOU BANDIT
“hand control” hands down. only if you get the push pull handle on them. bcb also has a insert for the recessed if you want to fill it. i have a foot control and cant stand it, but not willing to take a beating on selling it and then have to buy a new one. about 500.00 difference. will have to keep mind for now. my old set up was to have on and off buttons on the front set at 45 degrees from one another.
I ran hand ops for years, repped the ProKontrol handle when Phil Pasley first introduced it, years ago (still the best manual control device). Had 3 switches in my deck. Once BCB came out with the recessed foot control basin, it was all over. Rick talked me into changing, and Ive run MG FC Tour motors ever since, and would not go back. I dont care who you are or how you fish, you simply cannot be as effective with a hand op motor, especially in wind or open water. Took me a long time to convince myself, but a foot control motor with a competent operator is the best answer, and this is from a guy who ran Hand Ops for over 20 years.The new foot controls, of either brand, are smooth, reliable and efficient—Only thing that changes that statement is salt water. IF you expose your equipment to brackish or salt enviroments, then the special hand ops are the ONLY way to go. Salt spray will eventually lock up a foot control motor.Mike Whitten/Germantown, TN
I have the new MK fortrex and it really does like the commercial says. I can put it on automatic (constant on) with it pointed in a direction and it wont move or change course. This weekend I was fishing a ledge with jigs and put it on slow and was able to step back to fish to the side.
The MG that I used had a floor mount box for on/off switch, and roller for speed control…AND fit into the recessed pedal basin. I built a bracket out of 1×1 that leveled the button even with the floor.Probably more for the sit down Carolina crankers too……………96 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner
We dont understand the “what the boat is wired for” as the 3700 unit was an LCR in 12 volt. If this is a less common 3700 troller, BCB did not offer those and it was an aftermarket install or provided. Most were 36 volts. They might be able to check the drawing though it might not be on the list. BCB
Im sorry I was talking about the wires to the grafs . It has two. The one at the dash has two wires tageather with a female plug and one wire with male adp. The trolling motor has a wire that goes through a hole down into the hull to something. then the one to the foot peddle and the plug in for batteries.Im only falmiler with a hand controle with straight plug in to the batteries.12/24
My guess is that two of your bolts are hidden under the side plate cover . You can only see two of my bolt heads on my fortrex
nivek,I would start with the cables. Check that they are routed correctly on the pulleys under the pedal and under the top cover.
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