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Black Silicone or Urethane will do the trick to make it look better. We really liked the old Aluminum (1980s) rub rail for many reasons. Though the rubber rub rail of hte last 20 years has been well accepted.It does tend to gouge with steel or a nail impact. You can not repair it that we know of, though you can dress it up some. Fisihing is good mostplaces now! BCB
No doubt a job and Im sure the appearance of the boat improved greatly. The amazing thing is the second person would have made a lot of difference. I saw one installed at the factory in about 30 minutes to an hour one time.
If you want to make it much easier next time, Harbor Freight has an inexpensive air rivet gun that will perform the job on these smaller scales. They are not a production rivet gun, though they would do several boat with no problems. Glad you got it done! BCB Admin.
When the Rub Rail and Insert are purchased from the parts dept are the rivets and any other mounting hardware also supplied ? This is something I have been wanting to do for a while on my 98 Jaguar. Is it relatively easy to do and get a good result or is it one of those royal pain in butt jobs to do alone. I already have the air riveter of which you speak and would love to give this a try. Just dont want to tackle something that I might need a third hand for. Living alone can make certain “easy” tasks rather difficult. Thanks for the input BCB
You can do it by yourself, and the only obstacle is taking your time to get the rub rail straight as you drill it on there. The original holes will not be easy to find, thus you end up mounting the new rivets in new holes. The rivets can be supplied and we dont know if they are now or not. They well rub rail for other brands of boats that use screws and they do not require the rivets. Ask about the machine screws when you remount and be sure to get those to install every couple of feet along with the rivets. BCB
dmoore58,I bought my rub rail kit about a month ago and rivets were supplied. I was able to use existing rivet holes. I believe the rivots require a #10 for new holes. I drilled rivets out with a # 12 drill bit. I ran tape around boat above rub rail and marked existing holes after old rail was off. I believe there were only 2 holes I could not reuse. Most of the rivets were spaced 4 inches apart except in corners, which were spaced 1-2 inches apart. Since there were a few extra rivets I added extras where my old rub rail was working loose. I laid my new rail out in the sun for about 20 minutes before install. It sure helped loosen it up. When I did corners I heated the rail with a heat gun (this really helped make it more flexible). One person can certainly do it, but an extra person would be nice. My neighbor helped me get started. We installed the front part on one side first with a couple of rivets. Then we stretched it as much as possible and riveted the back side. Then I just worked towards the front. Repeated process for the other side, then did the back corners.
Got any pics?
Will take a couple tomorrow
fishntroxJust to make sure I am clear as to what you are saying. You attached the back end of the rail near the corner then pulled it tight and tacked it at the front ? Im assuming this was to help you set it straight ? Once it was lined up and straight you then fastened it with the rivets ? How difficult was it to get the insert into the rail once it was mounted ?
Dave,Get the install info and Ill drive down to help you out.Tom
Chrome? Why? Man I love that big ol rubber insert that is easy to replace. Ive got SS on my cobalt but wish it was rubber too-C.O.D. Jr. III
The damage to the railing on runabouts is why BCB chose not to go stainless or aluminum. However it does look nice new and it is attractive. The custom designed rub rail BCB runs is their mold.
I also love bcb insert! Easy to replace and at a fraction of cost and time. I kinda anal about it rubbing even though that wat its for.2013 PANTERA 2MERCURY 200 PRO XSMINNKOTA 80LB FORTREX25 fury
Anal rubbing?C.O.D. Jr. III
Im out Clown!
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