Home › Forums › Bass Cat Boats › Replacement Livewell Cable
I have managed to break my livewell cable. The threaded portion of the cable sheath has broken where it anchors to the switch located below the gear shift in my 2010 PII. I estimated 12 feet for the length of the cable. Can anyone confirm this? Any tricks for fishing a new cable in?Thanks,Jason
I had to replace mine last year. Connected the end of the new cable to the valve end of the old with electrical tape. Wrapped it good and made the transition gradual so no edges to hang up. Pulled it all thru to the actuator and hooked it all up. Easy process.Anything I need to pull thru gets the same treatment. Dont know enough about snaking cables – so, I use an existing cable / wire / etc… to pull a new one thru.
Sounds good, I ordered the parts from the basscat store today. Thanks!
Do yourself a favor, before getting into running new cable, see if you can fix the Turn Dial mechanics under the gear shift with parts from the new cable/switch. I wish I did. First – Dont count on the old cable pulling through. Sometimes the cables get wire tied or taped to other things running through the channel and wont move. Mine wouldnt. Second – where the cable attaches to the live well valve can be difficult to impossible to get to due to pipes or pumps in the way. Yours may not be like mine (2007 Classic), but then again it might be. Chances are the cable itself is fine so all you need is parts from the new unit BCB Parts will send you. I dont recall the connection you describe and my left over parts are up at camp so I cant look at it so my suggestion may not work but if it will, it will save you a lot of time and aggravation. If you do have to run cable and old one wont move, fishing the cable from hold under gear shift into channel isnt to bad, getting hold of the end once it reaches the back of the boat is another matter. You will need to remove the starboard side vent and if you have young person or a spouse with a small arm, have them reach through hole and guide wire into bilge area where you can get hold of it. If you can move cable back and forth so your helper can find the new cable it will be easier because you are working on feel because there isnt much room plus its dark. There is a lot of stuff coming out of that channel so it can be hard to figure out which is the new cable (believe me I know) so if you have a helper with a small arm it makes life easier. Another option if you have a helper is to use a cable feed fish cable through channel and attach new cable to it. Probably easier to feed from the back if you have fish cable. If you have to run the new cable hopefully your stabilizer clamp where L connects to valve switch is accessible. The screw for mine was trapped between fiber glass and a pipe and I couldnt get to it. I ended up Gerry rigging the new cable with wire ties so I can close valve all the way in “Automatic” position but it wont totally close in the empty position so water flows in to wells when there are no fish in there during a tournament (unfortunately a frequent occurrence)…… The good news is when I do catch the first fish the live well is already half full so I dont have to stop to fool with filling well. Note I could have disconnected pipes/pumps to move out of the way so I could properly attach to valve switch but it seems with plumbing, when you take stuff a part it never goes back together right. At least for me. Anyway, I could have avoided the whole process if I had bothered to look closer to how the round dial backing attaches to the cable (I had broken the plastic part of the dial). All I and to do is remove two screws, put new dial on and put it back. But nooooooooo, I had to dive head first in and run the new cable. By time I figured it out it was to late as I had to cut the old cable to get it out of the way to attach the new to the valve lever.Anyway, figure how much time you think you will need then double it and you should be fine. If it goes easier and faster, great. Just dont plan on it.Good luck.Brian
When I replaced my cable – I also replaced the actuator assembly under the shift / throttle and gave the valve in the bilge a disassembly and cleaning. Everything was a tight fit, but figured If I was going to do contortions and replace stuff, might as well put the system back clean and operational. I was able to confirm valve functioning topside before putting it all back together in the bilge. It was actually easier that way.
J your way is the right way but when you get to my age, doing those contortions in that little opening over the bilge gets harder and harder. I figure Ill have to replace hoses at some point and will take care of it (and by that I mean pay my dealer to do it) at that time.
Got it all (actuator, cable, valve) changed out this weekend. Fishing the cable went well by taping the heck out of the new one and taking my time fishing it through the pile of wires Seems to work good now, hopefully I will get to test it this week.The old valve was quite sticky so I am glad I changed it too and not just the cable.
© 2026 Bass Cat Boats

