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Do any of yall have any experience with this trolling motor with the GPS pinpoint feature? How is it in the grass? Pros/Cons?Thanks,Ronnie
Ive heard its the most accurate of the type. However, I have no experience with either brand.
Thanks for the reply Phil.
I had a Terrova with ipilot on my previous boat,mI can answer questions about that but have never even seen one of the motorguide version. I loved my terrova on a Lund multispecies boat, it did a decent job of solving my “getting blown around way too much” issues, but if all I did was fish sheltered shallow water Id go for a cable steer motor for certain, but thats a relatively small % of what I do. My new pantera classic I put a cable steer on, figure Ill try it for a season and see what I think, and might go back to a powered-drive motor with a gps function, well see.Among other things Im interested to hear from anyone who has one of these on a basscat how they have rigged, how theyve solved rigging the motor with regards to bounce while running, and also how theyve rigged the foot pedal in the recessed tray.
I have a Terrova and Sherm put a filler in the recessed tray. It works nice. I also had him to use a ram mount to lock the trolling motor down while trailering or running in rough water. It was the same setup I had on my tin boat and it has worked very well.Dan
A friend of mine has the minnkota version with an extra long shaft 55 or 60 inches . When I first seen it on his boat (an “R” boat) , I thought it looked goofy however , after fishing with him on Kentucky lake on a real windy day , I am sold . He uses the electric anchor feature along with that extra long shaft ,we were fishing the ledges and points with no issues at all . My real problem is the mount ,seems like they could make it with a fold back mount like the mg gator mount . My two cents..
The overhang is also a concern, especially when putting the boat in the boat lift. I fish a lot away from the bank and the anchor feature sure does interest me.
I had my terrova on a lund and the overhang was a non-issue, but Im told on many bassboats the overhang can hit the bow stop on th trailer so a slide-back mount is helpful…I did have one on mine but mainly for easily removing it, I never had a problem with clearance. The spotlock isnt perfect, if the wind is variable and gusty youll still get blown around, and it only works if youre pointing into the wind (if youre not now, you will be soon…) but its a heck of a lot better than without. My lund was like a sail in the wind and it made a huge difference. Its great fishing shorelines in the wind especially alone–if you need to retie or land a fish simply hit the spotlock and forget qbout it, itll keep you from being blown off the spot or into shore. Its NOT great at close-quarters maneuvering like you might find in flooded timber, channels through thick weeds, etc as the motor-steering is slow and takes getting used to. Its also a total pain to pull it put of the water, Im told you can rig a pullcord on it, if so that would be much nicer on a bassboat. I used a trolling motor RAM to stabilize it, as the mount doesnt provide any stqbility from hitting waves to the mount is under a lot of stress and Ive heqrd of people having them deploy at high speeds from this and tear apart the motor, the ball from the ram did make the motor easier to grab, but a cord would still be a massive improvement.Id love to see photos of the foot pedal insert mentiond above, or any other basscats that use a terrova or similar foot pedal.
Oh, the only other thing tht is totally wonky on these–at leqst the Mk version–is that there is no good way to mount a sonar transducer on the shaft, as the shaft has to slide inside the mount so you cannot secure a ducer cable to the shaft in the traditional way. If you can use the US2 or MG equivalent thats great, but that doesnt work with DI or SI sonars. Youd think that because MK and humminbird are owned by the same company theyd have a way around this, but their recommendation is total BS. On mine I had to remove the entire head of the trolling motor, slide it out of the mount and run the ducer cable up the groove in the shaft and glue it in place, then slide it all back into the mount and re-install the head. MK does not officially recommend doing this even though its the only way to rig a modern sonar to the TM without letting the ducer cable hang free along the entire length of the shaft. Supposedly removing the head yourself voids the warranty, so I paid a mk service center to do it. It works great, but Im told lowrance transducer cables dont fit in the groove on the MK shaft. Im not sure if MG has a solution for this, but if you are considering one of these motors you need to take this into consideration. If that didnt make sense let me know, theres some youtube videos that show how to do it that will make sense.Last edited by Macintosh on December 28th, 2014, 12:27 am, edited 2 times in total.
Thanks Macintosh. I hadnt thought of running the transducer cable through the mount. I have an 898 on the front and was told there is a cross over allowing me to use the transducer in the MG, but Id only have 2d capability. Since I seldom use the SI or DI while on the front deck, Ill probably be willing to do without. I would definitely have a ram mount to support the head because Ive been known to venture out or get caught in rough stuff on Toledo Bend. I do have to avoid stumps so the response time may be a factor also. I sure appreciate your input.Ronnie
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