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mike dominick.
I picked up my PIV yesterday and ran it 2 hours to start break in, after 2 hours I could run it up to full throttle for short periods. I had the plate at 3 1/8 pad to prop, and elevation is 2300 feet above sea level, Croxton worked 24 Fury off my Etec. WTO speed was 65.3, rpms were 5700, 35 gallons gas, 2 guys 200 pounds each, wp over 15. Handling was way different than with the Etec, the Etec ran very flat with the Fury, the SHO with the same prop picks the front end up a lot higher. I dont know why this would be, does anybody have an idea? Ive raised the plate 1/2 inch to put it at 2 5/8 and will try that, Im trying to get it to 6000 rpms with the Fury, might order a 24 FXP as well.
What is weight difference?C.O.D. Jr. III
M2 or L2 on the etec ?
Weight is advertised about the same, 503 Etec / 505 SHO. My Etec lower unit was the Lightning 2.
Keep in eye on WPSI but you can continue to go up till you are at 12psi at WOT. From my past bench marks with my 200SHO on my Eyra going up 1/4″ on the plate was about 40-50 plus rpms gained. Im not a betting man but if I was to bet a cup of coffee at 2″ below pad you will gain about 110-140 rpms trimmed out just past 3/4 full trim. Where are you on the trim gauge? Hows the chine walk? I think the 24 is the right prop. Keep it going. Great numbers for only 2 hours on the motor. Congrats!
What are the speed differences of the two motors? Holeshot changed? Sounds? like you have less rear end lift?If the numbers look the same Id just run it nose high. You can goto a four blade to get more rear end lift or you can get a pro to do the prop but it wont be cheap. The bossman at Mazco did a 26 raker for me and got me significant rear end lift but that was a $400 job.If you are happy with the speed id borrow a 24 trophy and see what I had if I just wanted it to run flatter for big water and forward vision. 3psi with some error in the gauge doesnt give you much room to go up but I would try it some just to see.Last edited by clownshoes on June 4th, 2012, 2:48 am, edited 2 times in total.C.O.D. Jr. III
Could you give a bit of information on how you like/dislike your new toy.Im curious because I have a 2010 P IV with a SHO 200.Have you found out how to make the SHO growl with 250 ponies yet O:-)Looking forward to see what you find for the set up.Practice Angling CPRCatchPictureRelease2010 PIV 200SHO
I had no issues when I ran my 200SHO 1.5″ to 1″ below pad. Now the PIV is a different hull so I cant comment on your rig in that regard. 2″ below pad has great potential IMO. Hope you get there and beyond. Like I said keep an eye on the WPSI gauge. Watch out when your motor loosens up at around 30 hour mark. That motor is a beast! Anyway, I look forward to reading where you are trimming out your motor. Thats where the SHO really demonstrates its mid range growl. I wished I had more time with my past 200SHO/PIV. That one slipped through my hands fast for the Eyra I had purchased. No regrets on that end but those PIVs are really nice boats. You are trailblazing this setup so kudos to you.You gonna like not having to add oil. No mess there to worry about anymore.
Not sure what you are looking for out of a prop but I tested quite a few on my SHOs.I tried Hydromotive qaudxb four blade prop on my SHO. It was very good stabilizing the boat but was slower at top end by about 1.5 mph. Carrying the load was one of the features of the prop. I never saw that to be a benefit. Although, I was running and gunning solo most of the time so there might be merit if you are carrying the load all the time. Hole shot was good but not better then 25 Fury when I had the 200SHO on my Eyra. The FXP was a happy medium between the Fury and my Hydromotive four blade prop. Its a three blade prop, has no vent holes, made specifically for SHO motors, great prop out of the box, smidge slower at WOT vs the Fury, absolutely no prop slip out of the hole (the best) seemed to be less chine vs the Fury. However, If I was to have only one prop out of the box it would be a Fury prop. Mainly because I fish solo most and I like punch it to WOT for fun factor. Hmm…. Never get tired of doing that. From my perspective their is just not that much difference or gain you are going to see with stock props vs the Fury and I dont think $400 dollars for custom work is not my up of tea either. Thats me speaking. I efforted a lot of time and spent mucho dollars on this end. Dont make my mistakes! After re-reading your post I think you are close with your setup. Once your motor is properly run hard during 10 hour break-in work your way up 1/4″ intervals to and possibly beyond 2″ below pad. FYI: I got past 6000 rpms with my 200SHO raising my motor. Not sure what altitude does to your setup though. What has been your experience when you get to sea level with your past boats contrasting sea level and 2400 above sea level? Any chance we can see side view pic of your motor/jackplate? Last edited by Flyswatter on June 5th, 2012, 1:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
My slidemaster is set now about 3/4 inch above flush, but I havent run it that way yet. Ive got a team tournament this weekend out of my partners triton and next week Im on call Coroner, so I wont run mine till the 21st. My goal is 67 loaded, if I cant get that Ill call the gang in Nixa Mo for some help. The altitude here knocked 3-4 mph off my etec from sea level, I ran 69-70 loaded at 0 and 66.5 up here at 2400. I ordered a 24 FXP yesterday. The motor “made oil” (its now about 3/8″ over full, started 1/2 way between the 2 marks) in the first 2 hours, yamaha said to drain it back to below full then change it at 10 hours and let the rings seat. I only care what it will run with 2 guys and a tournament load so my set up will probably end up a little different than yours.
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