Hot foot throttle cable

I am going to install a hot foot on my boat and I need to know what length throttle cable I need. I have a 2002 Pantera Classic. Also, what size and length screws are recommended by basscat for screwing down the foot? I dont want to screw in too far. I have also noticed that most hot foots on Basscats are installed more towards the middle of the floorboard and slightly turned to the left. Is this required or can I install it in whatever position I want? I appreciate any help on this subject. I am also going to install blinker trim. I was hoping to be able to install this without having to pull the wheel. Is this possible? Personally, My best advice is to take the boat to youre BCB dealer and let them install the items you want. Ive seen more hulls drilled thru, and screwed thru than i ever thought possible doing a hotfoot,(thus the positioning) and i dont think you can install the blinker trim without removing the steering wheel, at least not properly.(p.s. BCB does not reccomment a foot throttle) You can also contact service at BCB and get the necessary information if you so desire to install yourself, and they can fix you up with the parts, cable , etc,,,

I also was told that BCB does not recommend a hot foot but i did install one in my Pantera III. I called Simon in the parts dept.and he said it would take a 16 Mercury cable and they have them in stock. I used the screws that came with my adjustable slide and then installed the hot foot on to it. I had to install my hot foot a little toward center because of my radio location but I angled it slightly to ward the right(very little). I will be sure there is nothing around the hot foot and I will keep the spring and hinge points well maintained. I have had hot foots before in other boats and have not had any safety issues or issues of any other kind. Just my 2 cents worth. Hope this helps.

BCB does not have anyone at the factory who has run or does run a hot foot in house. They have converted those that they inform of their opinions with factual information. Which we will not use here. There is plenty here in between the lines, so please read this. This is a long topic, and Bass Cat feels that the springs on the hot foot are a point of failure. Many people remove the toe piece that is designed to lift the hot foot, and others run the hot foot with their foot on top of the toe piece never realizing it, or that this is a safety feature. The gearcase and cable failures are major sticking points for BCB. The higher percentage of gearcase failures we have seen have a hot foot in common. When one gets into a tense situation with a hot foot they automatically lift their foot all at once, instantly dropping the nose as power is removed. This puts the hull in a nose bow scrub situation that most drivers are unable to handle and thus prevent a situation. The nose is held up and hull works under torque, remove the torque and you have a sled, like dragging your front brakes in a corner, only more drastic. Picture a motorcycle and using the front brake to slow the bike on a gravel road. When you remove power at once in a foot lift, you raise the engine and lower the bow almost instantly. Now you know how the force of your trim alters your performance, imagine if it were as fast as the bow drop when you lift. Realizing this is more extensive then the non powered lift, though somewhat similar. There are plenty more things we can add on a hot foot. Though our position is firm and we did not mount a hot foot at Bass Cat until the early 2000 years. Till then we would not mount one and consumer pressure forced us to go hot foot, just like hydraulic steering. Though Hydraulic steering is also a result of larger horsepower engines with larger V6 blocks. Which is another reason Allison was forced to go to hydraulic steering eventually. Though you folks know our position on that also. BCB