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Trickster.
Hello, I cracked the decket on the front of my Motoguide Trolling Motor mount. This is a freshwater 71lb digital. The Mount has 4 screws. 2 at the front where the decket is attached and 2 in the back. All 4 screws turn fairly easily but will not fully tighten and will not back out. Do I have to remove the cover where the wiring is to get to these? I assume these have floating nuts of some type. I can see getting the back ones off would be no problem but reaching the front screws/nuts looks to be very difficult. The opening is not big enough to reach my arm/hand up to where the front screws/nuts would be. Any help here is appreicated. Thanks, RickLast edited by Trickster on November 18th, 2007, 4:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
yep take the face place off and you will be able to reach the nuts. The front two nuts are hard to get at but with a little work you should be able to get to them.Bob
Cant help on your question,but are you talking about the plastic piece on the leading end of the mount?If so where are you going to get the new one?I have the same piece broke and cant seem to get a new one,had one ordered for about two months and they cant get one in.Mine is not digital its a 98 model.Sorry I couldnt help with your question.
The isolater bolts actually have nylock nuts on them and can be accessed thru the wiring panel,,,,they should also have aluminum backing plates under the deck, and be careful not to drop these plates. When repaired just replace the brackets and nuts and tighten thouroughly to stabilize the rubber isolater bases under the bracket. dont overtighten as you could damage the glass, D.
Hi, I found out a little more on this today from Gary at All Star Marine in Dallas Tx. I have a 2005 Pantera Classic. Gary told me that the screws have a rubber sleeve. When installing the screws the screw and sleeve should be fit into the original hole and then as they are tightend the rubber sleeve pulls upward against the fiberglass sort of like drywall screws that you punch through the wall and then as you screw down it pulls up against the other side of the wall. Gary told me to use a hack saw to cut the bolts if I could not get them off via the access panel. Not sure Ilike that option but I may have to do it on the front screws. So if replacing the decket in my case I need the 4 new screws and pads that go underneath. Bama P, I called Motorguide and they recommended a couple of places to get the decket (hard plastic piece on the leading edge). If you are having trouble finding you could try All Star Marine. The website is listed below. I would ask for Gary the owner and let him know what you are looking for. If you are not sure about the part maybe send him a picture via e-mail. http://www.fishingworld.com/AllStarElec … fault.tmpl BassCat, This is a 2005 Pantera Classic with less than 40 hours on the big motor. This boat has not had a lot of use. Have you seen issues with the screws that hold the mount to the bow? All 4 screws on the mount seem to have the sleeve broken as I cannot tighten the screws down. After talking to Gary at All Star Marine he said the sleeves must have seperated but the upper part of the sleeve is still holding the mount secure. Not a big issue at the moment as the mount is secure but I would think that all 4 showing this is a concern. Thanks all for the help. Rick
The only way that troll motor mount will come off, as “dbasketman” has stated, is to remove the trolling motor wiring panel. There are aluminum plates under the top cap fiberglass, with nylock nuts and washers, that hold the mount to the deck. If you drop the aluminum plates, they will be forever in the keel. Brother, dont take a hack saw to the isolater mounts. That is no good. If you cant reach the nuts, get the longest wrench you can find, and put masking tape on the box end. Poke a hole through the masking tape. This will keep the nuts from falling through. You have to go slow, as to not drop any hardware. It is really a 2 person job, but if you execute the process correctly, you wont drop the hardware. When re-installing, take the aluminum plates and put industrial strength velcro on the side that will touch the glass. The front plate is angled to the curv of the bow, so make sure you get that correct. Drop the bolts through the mount to serve as a guide, peel the backing from the velcro and place them up and over the bolts, pressing the aluminum plates to the underside of the bow cap. They will stay in place while you secure the hardware. Go Slow. One more thing. The hardware should be stainless. It is important to lubricate the threads with water resistant grease or anti seize to prevent the threads from galling. Stainless is strong but it is a sticky metal and easily galls if not lubricated. JamesLast edited by Jewalston on November 18th, 2007, 4:15 am, edited 2 times in total.James
Trickster, While we know and Respect Gary Kinard, at All Star, he is wrong on this one. You need to be sure Gary knows you have a BCB and he also should know all BCB Mounts are through bolted. You will need to remove the pedal, and panel to access that nut on the rear. They are mounted after the deck is installed and finished, so we use that little hole also. DO NOT USE A HACKSAW! DO NOT USE A HACKSAW! We think you should understand not to use a Hacksaw. Remove the grommet after the bolts and you may need new ones, which you will have to cut the lower bronze nut off the well nut. BCB
I think he will get the point! Hopefully he isnt on the hacksaw right now!James
…take a towel or something like it and put under the plates and nuts when you remove them…as to keep them from falling into a place you dont want them to go…….if you have any questions please feel free to call. 901-413-2650 G.Harlan.Cpt.Gary Harlan (Harlo) USCG Liscd Fishing Guide Tishomingo, MS Roger Stegalls Professional Guide Service Sponsors: BassCat (of course!), Strike King, Falcon Graphite Rods, Gary Yammamoto Custom Baits
Thanks for the replys. I am going to have Tommy Yetts at Rockwall Maine replace the decket this winter. I was hoping to save on labor but want to make sure this gets done right. I was not about to take a hacksaw to this. I thought something was fishy with the suggestion. I did not tell Gary I had a Bsscat which was bad on my part. I had told a worker at All Star I had a Basscat and when I talked to Gary about this I assumed he knew. Basscat, I deduced I could access the rear nut on the rear adfter removing the foot pedel and cover panel. My concern was the front. Anyway no need to reply.
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