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oldtimer57.
Welp.. fishing was good this weekend But on the way home I noticed major wear on my drivers side trailer tire (single axle trailer). Jacked up wheel found it to be quite wiggly then took wheel off to find quite a bit of movement in the hub (cant get videos to load.. will try again later)… This looks like a new hub and tire are needed to me, does this seem right to everyone else?Also, can i use this hub for my “spare” to get me home in case of massive failure?
Sounds like a bearing (or both) failed more than a failed hub. First simple test is to remove the cotter pin and locking cover and see if the spindle nut is finger tight. Bet it isnt, which is a sure sign of bearing failure, as the tapered bearings provide the “seat” for the hub on the spindle. The bearings are easy enough to replace although the races can be a pain to remove and replace. You can find the bearings / races at NAPA and other places, just take the old one with the part number on it to them…You will also need new grease seals (two if you do both wheels which is recommended). They are a bit trickier to find. Allan can get them to you in a couple of days, and they will be cheaper (even with shipping) that buying them from most auto parts places. They show up under transmission output shaft seals typically, and that apparently gives them a license to steal. from you… Replacing the entire rotor/hub (if this axle has brakes) or just the hub is simpler, since it will come with new races already installed. But it will cost more. BCB parts can ship you those as well.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
I should add that some grease (leaked from hub i assume) is present on the inboard side of the hub, where it transitions to the torsion arm. I assume this indicates the seal has failed also.
oldtimer57 wrote:Sounds like a bearing (or both) failed more than a failed hub. First simple test is to remove the cotter pin and locking cover and see if the spindle nut is finger tight. Bet it isnt, which is a sure sign of bearing failure, as the tapered bearings provide the “seat” for the hub on the spindle. The bearings are easy enough to replace although the races can be a pain to remove and replace. You can find the bearings / races at NAPA and other places, just take the old one with the part number on it to them…You will also need new grease seals (two if you do both wheels which is recommended). They are a bit trickier to find. Allan can get them to you in a couple of days, and they will be cheaper (even with shipping) that buying them from most auto parts places. They show up under transmission output shaft seals typically, and that apparently gives them a license to steal. from you… Replacing the entire rotor/hub (if this axle has brakes) or just the hub is simpler, since it will come with new races already installed. But it will cost more. BCB parts can ship you those as well. Thanks for the reply old timer! Does this apply to the vault hubs? My trailer has those and I was under the impression those were replace type units and not rebuildable
Talked through the issue with Allan in parts at BassCat… the vault hubs are rebuild-able, however, BassCat does not carry the parts to do so. I wanted a “limp home” spare anyway so I went ahead and ordered a replacement hub assembly.
Whichever hub you use , you need 17-22 in . / lbs. of preload on the bearings , in my humble opinion .
Most that I have worked on (which is obviously not ALL hub assemblies) say “finger tight”. The more detailed instructions say torque LIGHTLY with a regular wrench on the spindle nut to be sure you dont have grease creating extra play, then without moving anything but the nut, loosen and retighten finger tight. Not sure why you would want any pre-load, particularly when things are going to expand as they get warmer anyway. This works for cars, trucks, trailers, everything I have ever worked on that used tapered bearings. Yes a rear-end pinion bearing typically has a pre-load, often via a crush-collar, but Ive never seen preload on wheel bearings. Doesnt mean you are not right. Just means I have never seen this and it seems surprising to preload wheel bearings. Note I have NOT touched a vault hub, nor do I plan on doing so. I like the old-school hubs as I have never had a failure that stranded me in almost 50 years of boating, when I regularly inspect them and rebuild when necessary. BEFORE they fail. Fortunately 1 foot-pound of torque (16 in/lbs) is not much preload and I doubt that would hurt a thing either.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
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