Home › Forums › Bass Cat Boats › 2008 Classic Livewell Problem Diagnosed
My livewell wasnt hold water when traveling down the lake. The switch was in the “auto” position. I found out that the cable end had broken at the switch end. There is a cable adjustment there. It may have been tightened too hard. I also took the Flowrite valve apart to see how it works. I wasnt very impressed with its construction. Its pretty cheaply constructed. But alot of things these days are that way and they perform ok. Inside there are two rubber flaps and a plastic orifice. In the “auto” position the flaps cover the inlet / outlet from the back of the boat. They act like a check valve. If the head pressure from the livewell exceeds the head pressure from the lake then no water comes in. If the livewell looses some water then water is allowed to come in from the lake. Its physics. I put a full opening ball valve between the Flowrite valve and the inlet /outlet from the back of the boat. That way if the valve ever gives me trouble again I can be on total recirculate. Just about killed a 29# stringer on Conroe the other day cause I could not keep water in the livewell while traveling. It will also be used when fishing deep in the summer and cooling the water with ice. I wont have to worry about any hot lake water coming into the livewell unless some one hit the fill. I will get a new cable. I talked to Bowden marine and they told me to bring it in and they would fix it. I could fix it in 20 minutes if I had the new cable. They did not have the cable. I think I will go over there and show them the broken parts so they can order the cable before I drop my boat off to them.
Just make sure they get the cable ordered on Monday and it will be right. They dont need the cable and you dont have to waste your time ont his one. Glad you found the issue and we apologize for the failure. Back a few years ago we polled all Owners on another board and asked for input. We would like to go plug and no valve, though the valve was too predominant in popularity. Everyone thinks they need the valve for easy operation. It is easy when it works, though a plug works better.
I sure would prefer plugs over the valve.
Not me, I want the valve…I fish in the winter and dont want to have to stick my arm up to my armpit into the livewell to pull a plug. I know you could use the pump out but I dont like having the area behind the boat soaked and normally dont empty mine until I hit the road home (normally it is one of the last things I do). Quick question…for those who prefer the plug why couldnt they take the black filter cap off and use a plug and never move the valve from empty? Now it you made one of those dinky shallow white livewells I wouldnt mind (just a joke fellas) Glad you got it figured out Fish. Judd Lasiter
I installed a full opening 3/4″ lever handled ball valve between the Flowrite valve and the inlet / outlet on the back of the boat. If the Flowrite valve isnt working right for any reason I can close this valve and be absolutely certain that the livewell wont lose water through the Flowrite valve. I dont have to put my arm in the livewell to let the water out, just open the battery / pump compartment and close or open the valve. It cost me about $20 to do this. If you have the Flowrite valve with “empty” and “auto” positions you never have true recirculate. This valve is desiged to let in new water as part of the recirculation. Therefore you cant cool the water as well with ice since new hot lake water will be added. This valve lets me do that or I can keep it open and use the livewell as its designed. Best of both worlds. You can fill the livewell with this valve closed as there are separate recirculate and fill pumps.
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