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Out of the blue my trailer has developed an issue backing up. The brakes are locking intermitently when in reverse. Ive never had an issue before and have used the rig this year quite a bit. If it is an issue w/ a solenoid or wiring etc….is there a way to bypass the brakes so I can at least get it in the garage and begin troubleshooting?
I’m having the same problem. I picked up my new classic today and was told by my dealer that the Ford F150 2002 model would have issues backing up step hills due to the brake on the trailor locking. I went by the Ford dealership and they looked at me like i was an alien. Can someone help scot and i.
BCB will have to chime in on the imtermittent problem, I apologize. Tipmaryland, I run a Puma and pull it a 2001 Ford Expedition, there is a relay that needs to be purchased from your dealer, it’s rather cheap and worth it in the long run. It goes under the hood on my 01, I am sure your 02 is very similiar. I looked in my owners manual and found the missing relay spot, it is either #201 or 203, both deal with trailer lamps and the 203 is the backup trailer lamp. It did not come installed on my 01 Expedition. I purchased it (part# F57B-14B192-AA) from the parts dept. at my local Ford dealer, it is the same as the other relays in the other spots and since installed it locks out the brakes everytime as they are triggered by the reverse lights if I am not mistaken. I can back up in any situation flat or steep without an issue. Hope this helps, check out your owners manual, if you have trouble let me know, you can email me direct at [email protected]
Thanks and hope this helps,
Chris
Scot, yours is probably the solenoid on your trailer failed. This is one of the main reasons we did not like the disc brake systems, plus drum stop better. Though people like the ease of disc.
The solenoid is going to have to be replaced, and you should be able to either pin of put the tool in the front coupler to keep it from pressing against the master cylinder.
The coupler slides in and out, and the solenoid allows the fluid to bypass the master cylinder. Keep the coupler from depressing, and then it will back up until you get a new solenoid.
The other issue is a Ford or wiring issue as Chris pointed out. We would like to know the marine dealership and the Ford dealer should have known this also. Though in major dealerships often they are not used to towing aparatuses.
You also can use the coupler lock out tool, that is in your black delivery bag, though eventually and soon you need that reverse light wire activated on the five pin harness. You will need that five pin harness also if you do not have one.
Hope this helps!
BCB
To be honest, i think i did a horrible job explaining what was going wrong to the Ford dealer, it could of been partly my fault. Thanks BassCatboats and Chris for the great informative replies. I will go back to the Ford dealership tomorrow with some HARDFACT information. About the boat, WOW is all i can say! the best purchase ever made!! BTW BassCatBoats, i was given the coupler lock out tool, i just wanted to confirm there was a permanent fix.
Thanks again
Thanks for replying and I always forget to mention what I’m using…I have an ’06 Puma and pulling it w/ an ’06 GMC Yukon which was already wired up save the connector Richard @ Pops supplied me with FWIW.
You said ,
“Scot, yours is probably the solenoid on your trailer failed. ”
I’m assuming I should just call Wayne or Richard to get a replacement?…I’m sure I can swap it out myself.
“The solenoid is going to have to be replaced, and you should be able to either pin of put the tool in the front coupler to keep it from pressing against the master cylinder. ”
I’m not sure what pin or what tool you are referring to “release” the brakes
“The coupler slides in and out, and the solenoid allows the fluid to bypass the master cylinder. Keep the coupler from depressing, and then it will back up until you get a new solenoid.”
Where is the coupler and for that matter, where is the Solenoid?
“You also can use the coupler lock out tool, that is in your black delivery bag, though eventually and soon you need that reverse light wire activated on the five pin harness. You will need that five pin harness also if you do not have one. ”
I’m assuming you are referring to the Ford issue here but I should mention that if I was supposed to get some sort of coupler lock out tool in a black bag upon delivery for this type of event…I didn’t get any tools…makes me wonder what else if anything I was supposed to receive and didn’t…I got a black bag with some literature for the TM, Motor, a spare key, and a spare cigarette lighter but that’s it.
Sorry if I’m a little slow on this one…I’m anxious to work this out ‘cos it’s rainy and I want to get ‘er inside +…I’d like to use the boat at will.
Unfortunately yesterday was a bad day because out of the blue…my TM DIED also! It is a Tour82. Used it all day, pulled to the dock, went to truck to get something, came back to go back out and …BAM…dead as a doornail, trip over.
Batteries are fine, checking connections now and so far look good, overload switch is not tripped, prop is not fouled w/ line or anything…just dead….any ideas on this one?
You can slip anything into the coupler slot to stop the movement, which is an oval slot in the coupler, to allow the brakes to function. Though read on further.
THE OTHER OPTION, is to plug in your brown wired pin crossways into your five pin flat harness receptacle on the trailer. Yes put them together at a 90 degree opposing angle, and plug the truck brown, to the trailers blue pin.
Turn on your parking lights, and see if the trailer will now back up. If not, then you have a solenoid out. If it does, then you have a bad feed line on the vehicle from the reverse lights.
Also check to see if your reverse lights are out on the truck, or you have a fuse blown in your vehicle.
We doubt you are missing anything, and probably looked over hte key tool. There is a small slot key that is in a plastic bag, that fits into the trailer notch mentioned above.
If you do not have that, it is not something we get matched up items on, and we generally just throw them in for your benefit. The coupler company does not prefer us to put them in the delivery bags, because of hte liatbility on the brakes if you leave the coupler key in.
It is sunny here, so going fishing and we hope you get this covered today!
BCB
I had the same problem with my ’06 Cougar FTD trailer this last fall. Sherm checked it out and had to replace the solenoid as BCB said. I took my lock out key and attached it to the trailer, so I would always have it if it happens again. (That was Sherm’s idea!!)
Hey chris, just to let you know i contacted FORD and asked if they had any of the relays in stock and they informed me that the relay was no longer stocked and discountinued. I thought i was screwed until i checked the users manual and just borrowed the relay from the horn 
Who needs a horn anyway! lol
Thanks again
If the relay is the same and they don’t have a retro available, which we find unusual, go to a salvage yard and get one.
BCB
BCB, yeah i’m assuming there is a retro relay. I’m going to talk to them in person on monday morning. The “over the phone” service can sometimes be lacking w/ dealerships.
OK….I figured out what oval slot you were referring to…I was originally looking for a thru hole to put a pin through or something…I get the mechanics now.
I tested my rig the way you had suggested ,ie: Blue>Brown etc….and it appears it is in fact a bum solenoid because it did not “unlock” the brake as you had suggested it would. To save a road trip I’ll call Richard/Wayne on Monday to get a replacement and hopefully some simple instruction on how to replace…I’m guessing out w/ the old in w/ the new…done. I made an aluminum “lockout tool” to keep in the truck in the future.
Any ideas on the TM? I can’t find anything although there are a few places I still need to look but assuming all is good…Is there a known “problematic issue” w/ the Motor Guide Tour 82’s? About the only thing I need to do now is crack the upper head apart to ensure the integrity of the wiring hasn’t been compromised…I’m at a loss….it was working fine and then just quit….it’s gotta be electrical.
BTW…thanks for the help, it really is appreciated.
I’m not sure how “easy” it is to replace the solenoid. For a service guy, it probably is. I watched Sherm replace mine and was really glad he did it, instead of myself…and I am fairly mechanically minded too.
Don’t see a T/M issue mentioned?
BCB
As posted above ^
“Unfortunately yesterday was a bad day because out of the blue…my TM DIED also! It is a Tour82. Used it all day, pulled to the dock, went to truck to get something, came back to go back out and …BAM…dead as a doornail, trip over.
Batteries are fine, checking connections now and so far look good, overload switch is not tripped, prop is not fouled w/ line or anything…just dead….any ideas on this one? “
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