Home › Forums › Bass Cat Boats › Pantera II SP w/ 200 ProXS 4s
Also posted on Bass Boat Central.
After many years of running numerous PanteraII hulls with the 200 2 stroke Mercury ProXS engines (current is a 2017), I have worked a deal to purchase a new 2020 P2 Special Package with the Mercury 200 ProXS 4s. Can anybody tell me their likes, dislikes of this package? I have been extremely happy with the two-stroke engines and this will be my first venture with the new four stroke. Performance numbers seen will be helpful and what prop are you running on that combination (pitch, rpm, speed, etc)? How do you like the dual 7” Humminbird’s on the console?
For some reason most of the Pantera II owners are not active on the forum.
barrigj:
Also posted on Bass Boat Central.
After many years of running numerous PanteraII hulls with the 200 2 stroke Mercury ProXS engines (current is a 2017), I have worked a deal to purchase a new 2020 P2 Special Package with the Mercury 200 ProXS 4s. Can anybody tell me their likes, dislikes of this package? I have been extremely happy with the two-stroke engines and this will be my first venture with the new four stroke. Performance numbers seen will be helpful and what prop are you running on that combination (pitch, rpm, speed, etc)? How do you like the dual 7” Humminbird’s on the console?
I have a 2017 Pantera 2 that came with the 2-stroke Mercury ProXS. I recently re-powered with the new V8 4-Stroke Mercury.
I don’t particularly like a Big Boat (20 footer) so the P2 is perfect for the Louisiana canals, marsh and lakes that I like to fish. I don’t fish “Big Water” much. I also had a Pantera 4 so when I took the first ride in my P2 it reminded me of the P4 ride and drive. I came out of a 2006 Pantera Classic to my current Pantera 2 because of the size and the sporty way it drives. In January of this year I re-powered to the 4-Stroke. All I can say is “WOW” what a difference. People say it is a Beast and I have to agree. It has so much torque and power that you will really love this motor. I run a 24 3-blade Fury but I want to try a 23 Fury as BCB has said. Plug all holes in the prop because the 4-stroke will jump out of the hole without slipping. I’m not a racing boat driver but I am slowly trying to adjust the right height for that “sweet spot”. I think I’m close now and once hit 74 which I never was able to do with the 2-stroke. You will not find any reason to dislike anything about the P2 with the 4-stroke. After you run it, come back and tell us what you think about it vs. the 2-stroke. I think you will be amazed.
I can’t comment on the double humminbirds because I have a single. I also don’t have the Ultrex so I can’t comment on that either.
Jim
JEH,
I too live in Louisiana (Baton Rouge area). I have been blessed to have owned 8 PII’s in the last 12 years. All with the 2S ProXS. I ran the 25p Fury3 and the 25p Trophy Plus. Both props carried the boats between 72-74mph. This is my first venture with the 4S so I am a little lost on where to start. I see most 4S are getting the 24p Fury3. Do you know if anyone has tried a 4 blade on this set-up?
barrigj:
JEH,
I too live in Louisiana (Baton Rouge area). I have been blessed to have owned 8 PII’s in the last 12 years. All with the 2S ProXS. I ran the 25p Fury3 and the 25p Trophy Plus. Both props carried the boats between 72-74mph. This is my first venture with the 4S so I am a little lost on where to start. I see most 4S are getting the 24p Fury3. Do you know if anyone has tried a 4 blade on this set-up?
Barrigj, I’m in Prairieville so I’m sure we may have crossed paths somewhere. I tried the 4-blade Fury with my 2-stroke and didn’t like it at all. It is totally not necessary on the P2 because it is a smaller lighter boat. Now a 4 blade Bravo might be a different story but I don’t have knowledge of anyone trying that one on a P2. One thing I noticed was that you need to plug those vent holes on the Fury prop. First time I tried to get on plane, I thought something was wrong because the “Beast” just blew a hole in the water. I had to feather it up before it would plane off. Now have all holes plugged. I also had to raise the jackplate much higher than I had it before to get that little bit of steering torque. I’m on my way to Lake Bruin today so I may not be monitoring the Forum as much for a while. You ordering it from Cajun or do they have it in stock? I thought they had one on hand a while back.
Jim
Purchased a 2020 form Frederick’s Outdoors in Decatur, Alabama. Really love what they put on the PII SP compared to what was on my last boat. The 4S is definitely a “Beast” and holeshot is instanteous. Getting to 4500 RPM’s will pin you in the seat and I can’t wait until i can open this thing up. Frederick’s mechanics said they were propping all with the 24p Fury 3 blade so that is what i did. We will see where the top RPM’s settle out at. Jim what RPM’s are you seeing with your 4S once it has broken in?
Gerard
Gerard, I am not certain at this point what my top RPM is. I just don’t get a chance to run WOT very often. Last time I was looking more at the speed than the RPM but I think I have noticed it at around 58 or 5900 with the 24 Fury 3. Two weeks ago I had to quickly get back to the landing for weigh in in the Spillway and I never got over 67 mph to do that and still had plenty throttle left to go. I never even noticed the RPM’s. On Lake Bruin right now you better not run WOT with all the wave boats and float boats putting out large wakes coming at you from all directions. Did you plug all your holes in the prop? Obviously you are breaking it in and getting the feel for the power this motor has. I’m very pleased with it.
Gerard, I stretched it out later today to 70 and 71 MPH. I saw 5800 RPMs both times. Duh…….I wasn’t looking at my smartcraft gage so that was the analog gage. I’ll try to do better next time. It was a pleasure meeting you today and talking about the P2’s. We ended up with a decent mess of fish and left there at 12:15. I’ll PM you my phone # so we can converse more.
Hi fellas been following this thread as I just got into my new p2 from Sherm about 3 weeks ago. I’ve got about 13 hrs on the 4 strok now and have had it to 67 with some chine think I was around 5800 rpm sometime I forget to look also. What are you guys running prop to pad ?. This is my first bass boat with a jack plate. Ran a ranger for 20 yrs with no plate so new to the jack plate game . My p to p on my p2 looks to be 4” running a 3 blade 24 fury . Thanks
We have a lot of newer owners this year and we want to be sure you understand the complexities in our product. They existed in your former brands also, though those characteristics are not critical to operation.
It’s important for our loyal BCB owners to note that we have seen a huge migration of new BCB owners in recent months. Ever have we noticed this growth in first time buyers and new owners. Please be patient and if you DON’T HONESTLY KNOW what a customer needs to do, sit back and try to learn yourself. We want these new owners to get off on the right foot with the best help and information.
Basically if your brand R, T, S or whatever is set up poorly, you just think it runs that way. Really it honestly doesn’t aand if you use these principles it will perform better also.
No hull should have excess steering torque, a high rooster tail or require excess trim. Of course some brands can run there and they are slipping more in either case, thus the loss is not as noticeable as on a BCB hull that is more efficient.
First, use a little trim and work your way up. You will not need over about half trim on a BCB hull.
Second, some venting on hole shot is good. Loaded we like around a second of venting to launch the hull.
Third No, yes no, Hull likes steering wheel torque pulling the steering to the right, that requires you hold hard left. That should be a slight pull right requiring you to pull slightly left, and very manageable. Users often over raise the engine to in their minds make it more manageable and it slows the boat down also.
It’s slippage in a liquid medium of the propeller. The higher, the more slippage and the more torque. the torque offsets the rubber engine mounts and the oscillation of the propeller your trying to learn how to control.
Pulls on the steering wheel are subtle and not drastic, keep the wheel left and never left the bow drift right. Keeping trim down in stages as you learn how to control the steering. Use small bumps of the trim as you work your way up on a run. Run 1/4 mile, bump it once, another 1/4, bump it again. Steps, baby steps are the answer.
The folks here will be glad to help you and the archives in the FAQ section will help with your learning more about your new boat.
BCB
Hope that helps Kurly…
Generally speaking a Basscat having a relatively lighter hull than other brands makes it more sensitive to trim as well no?
We actually are not lighter than competitive brands. Posted weights are not reality and we tend to be conservative as most of you know.
I was speaking to the R, T, S brands mentioned not the A, B, G. The Basscat is the perfect bridge in my humble opinion and more of a total performance bass boat as marketed than any of the others. More weight obviously isn’t a contributor to speed and one of the reasons I thought a Basscat has always been faster than R, T, S brands of similar length/hp? Jackplate can also give more leverage as it moves the center of gravity back allowing more lift potentially as well no?
In 2009 Yamaha dropped a Cougar FTD on the scales at the freshwater test center. In comparison, we were the fastest boat there with 250’s and they were suspect we sent a wringer in. They weighed them all (Ranger and Skeeter) and after weighing our boat It was the heaviest, they then moved the engine to a 225 SHO. Then it was still at least 4 MPH faster.
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