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Midnight Rider.
This is going to be quite lengthy, as I am very new into the world of bass boats.
Looking at my build sheet it says that both Helix 7’s G2N’s used thru hull transducers, but when I replace the fortrex with an ultrex the transducer wiring at the bow was going to the trolling motor. Where are these two thru hull transducers located, and is the wiring for the forward transducer hiding somewhere?
I also purchased another Helix 7 Gen 3N MDI that can utilize the mega transducer on the ultrex. It came with a Mega transducer as well that is going to be mounted on the back of the boat. No way am I going to attach it to the transom. No holes in my new baby. What is the best way to mount this transducer? Pics would be great.
Can the Gen3 H7 be hooked to the trolling and transom transducers at the same time?
The boat came rigged with a 24M cranking battery. 800 CCA with a 125 reserve. The boat came with a 3 bank charger that seems simple enough to hook up. My question is with the cranking battery running 4 graphs do I need more capacity? 3 H’7s and an ECHOMAP 93SV with livescope. If I were to install another 24 series battery in parallel with the cranking battery, with the two trolling batteries in series, can the on board charger(3 bank) charge them all?
I also read that the Ultrex needs 60 amp breakers opposed to the 50 amp breakers that came with the boat. The minn kota owners book supplied with the boat for the Fortrex that was installed said the 80lb motor can pull up to 56 amps, if this is the case why were 50 amp breakers supplied?
Does bass cat make an insert that can extend the deck that would cover the cooler?
Lastly, the two forward center storage boxes gas arms fall of the bracket on the door when the door is closed. Is there an easy fix for this?
Thank you for any and all help. I can not with to get her out on the water!
There is no insert for the deck to cover the cooler.
The locker rods coming off isn’t normal. There should be clips to hold them in place. It could be an alignment issue or the rod is bottoming out when closed. This issue should be handled by your dealer along with the 3 bank charger being hooked up.
You shouldnt need two batteries for cranking and electronics. A larger battery will help.
On the shoot thru hull transducers that is not my expertise. I am sure someone will be along with some input.
Lets see if we can get you some help.
One of the transducers that is glassed into the hull is in the bilge area. It gives you 2d at the helm when you are on plane. The other one is also glassed into the hull, but farther forward, a few feet in front of the floor drain. In my previous Cougar, the connector for it was tucked in just behind the clam shell that covers the hole for graph wiring access up on the starboard side of the bow. On my current P2, I cannot find that same connector for that transducer. However, it is not an issue for me because if the attached DI transducer on my trolling motor ever goes south, I would just use the 2d transducer on my Ultrex temporarily (and it happened).
A 24 series battery is too small to run your electronics, and start the motor, especially if you also use the livewells, and possibly other accessories like shallow water anchors, stereo, etc. 135 RC is too small, and should be up around the 200 area. Knowing what outboard and charger that you have would help in recommending a battery with adequate cca’s as well. If it is a new Mercury 4 stroke, you need more ccas for sure.
The Ultrex will use over 50 amps at high. That 50 amp breaker will only trip if you run it at high for a long period of time. I have never tripped my 50 amp breaker on a Fortrex or Ultrex, but I don’t run it flat out for prolonged periods. 50 works for most. Whether you need to upgrade to a 60 amp breaker will depend on your fishing style and the conditions that you fish in.
If you want to install your MDI ducer on the transom, then the best way to do it is with a transducer shield and saver. It attaches to the jackplate so no holes get drilled in the boat. You can not, however, run two MDI transducers with one Mega head unit. HB does make a switch for two transducers and one head unit, but it does not work with the Mega ducers. A lot of guys who have an Ultrex with the built in Mega DI ducer and the HB Mega DI head unit at the bow often just sell the Mega DI ducer that came with the head unit. They usually have SI/DI at the console, and DI at the bow, a very common set up.
Catdude28
Thank you so much for your insight into the fish finders and batteries. Boat has the 175 pro xs 4s. The installed onboard charger is the pro marine sport 20plus 3 bank charger.
As far as my fishing styles, I know I will use the Ipilot and link to follow contour lines, for bass fishing, all the installed birds have nav. I will also use spot lock as the wife and I will crappie fish quite a bit.
I doubt that I will ever go full speed with the trolling motor, I tend to fish slower than most.
You should have a group 31 battery for cranking and electronics, IMO. A 24 is just not going to cut it. Get the maximum CCA and reserve that you can find. My ’17 Sabre FTD has wet cell group 31 for cranking, and two group 27s for the Fortrex 80 trolling motor. The onboard charger should handle those with no issues. Your dealer should have known better than to put a 24 for cranking, and they also should have wired up the charger while at it. They do not make an insert for the deck, and honestly, I don’t see why anybody would need it, plus it makes getting up on the front deck easier with the cooler used as a step…of course, I’m older than you, perhaps…67.
You have a great boat, btw…the Sabre is a hotrod once it’s set up correctly. It’s the perfect size for my needs, will use minimal fuel, and handles like it’s on rails once you get it all right.
<cite>Midnight Rider:</cite>
<div class=”blockquote-content”>You should have a group 31 battery for cranking and electronics, IMO. A 24 is just not going to cut it. Get the maximum CCA and reserve that you can find. My ’17 Sabre FTD has wet cell group 31 for cranking, and two group 27s for the Fortrex 80 trolling motor. The onboard charger should handle those with no issues. Your dealer should have known better than to put a 24 for cranking, and they also should have wired up the charger while at it. They do not make an insert for the deck, and honestly, I don’t see why anybody would need it, plus it makes getting up on the front deck easier with the cooler used as a step…of course, I’m older than you, perhaps…67.
You have a great boat, btw…the Sabre is a hotrod once it’s set up correctly. It’s the perfect size for my needs, will use minimal fuel, and handles like it’s on rails once you get it all right.
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I didn’t get a 31, I got a 27, it is 840 CCA 184 reserve @25 amps.
And speaking of setup, I’m curious how deep you run your motor. Right now my prop shaft is 4.5 inches below pad. I have the 175 Pro XS 4S, so it has the additional water pickups in the nose of the LU.
I’m 190 lbs, by myself what kind of speed can I expect. And what kind of rpm’s should I expect at WOT.
<cite>Jeff-1970:</cite>
<div class=”blockquote-content”>I didn’t get a 31, I got a 27, it is 840 CCA 184 reserve @25 amps.
And speaking of setup, I’m curious how deep you run your motor. Right now my prop shaft is 4.5 inches below pad. I have the 175 Pro XS 4S, so it has the additional water pickups in the nose of the LU.
I’m 190 lbs, by myself what kind of speed can I expect. And what kind of rpm’s should I expect at WOT.
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Seems like that would be a little low at 4.5 inches. Once you get her broke in, you will be able to get a feel of what needs to be done on engine height. You should have slight torque in the steering at upper speeds when trimmed properly.
My 2011 Sabre FTD with the 175 Merc 2 stroke would see 69.4 mph with a 25 Trophy Plus prop. Cruised pretty easy at 60-65 mph.
I agree with Cajun. 4.5 will probably “crab” or wiggle in the rear end that low. Mine “crabs” a bit at 3.75 below. 3.5 PTP is pretty close with a 24 Fury 3. If you can drive it 3 .25 – 3.0 PTP, I bet the new 175 4 stroke will run 70-72 solo with 1/2 fuel without a ton of tackle upfront. Mine with the 2 stroke runs 69 with a 25 Tempest and 68.5 loaded with a 26 Bravo 1xs. I’m guessing you have the 24 Fury 3? Sabre runs well with a Fury, Fury 4, Tempest, Bravo 1, or Trophy Plus…take your pick. Fury 3 will probably be the fastest of them all.
Jeff, I am not aware of any AGM (as required by Mercury) battery that has those specs. Is that an AGM and if so, what brand is it?
<cite>catdude28:</cite>
<div class=”blockquote-content”>Jeff, I am not aware of any AGM (as required by Mercury) battery that has those specs. Is that an AGM and if so, what brand is it?
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It’s not an AGM battery, just normal lead acid. It’s the cranking 810 XPS from bass pro. It’s normally 194.99 and I got it for 116.
Jeff, Mercury specifically requires an AGM battery on the new V6 and V8 four strokes as per the manual. I would not be running that wet battery in that new engine. Any damage or failure caused by using the incorrect type or rating of battery would likely not get covered by your warranty. I would remove that one immediately and get the proper AGM battery for it.
I’ll look into that. Thanks for the info
Catdude, thanks for the heads up. I just called the dealer who sold me the boat. They are not a bass cat dealer, they are ranger and nitro dealer and mercury marine dealer. Talked to the sales manager, super guy btw, voiced my concern, and he was aware of the AGM requirement. I’m going to send him pics of the original 24 series battery that was in the boat. It sounds like he will make it right if they installed the battery. But what if my boat came from basscat with the incorrect battery……
So I assume it must be a boat that he took in on trade if he is not a BCB dealer. In any case, as he is a Merc dealer, he would have known about the AGM requirement, and, furthermore, no bass boat warrants only a 24 series battery with a tiny reserve. It wouldn’t have much of a life. Was that 24 series battery a flooded battery or an AGM? Who put it in? Bass Cat does not supply the crank battery in that boat. With that new engine, it is best go with a quality 31 series AGM and you will have piece of mind. There are a few good choices.
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