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1stinLA.
After replacing the pads on the trailer and bleeding the lines I noticed the two brake wheels running very hot. Its a 15 mile drive to my local spot, so I have done a little experimenting.I have noticed if I really feather the brakes and coast to a stop in a safe area the wheels are a reasonable temperature.I check the hubs regularly so Im confident that its brake related.When I bled the brakes I wasnt able to compress the caliper without cracking the bleed valve, is that normal?Once the trailer is unhooked it rolls freely so the calipers arent sticking but maybe they are hanging on and not releasing soon enough and generating the extra heat?Thanks for any input…
Did you look at the caliper dust boots closely? As pads wear, the pistons extend and stay extended. If any moisture gets in there, and particularly then behind the seal also, you get rust. Which wont hurt until you put new pads on, and press the caliper piston back into the caliper where the rust will cause interference and sticking, which will produce overheating. For your last question, no it sounds wrong. When you press the master cylinder pushrod with a screwdriver, if you look in the reservoir opening, the first bit of travel should produce a swirl in the reservoir fluid. This confirms that pressure is released from the master cylinder when fully retracted. You could have a master cylinder problem also, as UFP has a warning to never park the trailer with the cylinder compressed, this exposes part of the cylinder to moisture and potential rust there. And finally, if you use the screwdriver, you did release the lock with the tab that hangs down in front of the screwdriver hole? Forgetting this will leave the brakes on permanently until the pads wear enough to relieve the pressure.Last edited by oldtimer57 on July 12th, 2017, 2:45 am, edited 1 time in total.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
After some more thought on this, if the first caliper in the line was sticking, could that keep the other caliper from releasing? The port side hub is getting hot as well and the pads were fine on that side. The starboard side had uneven wear so I replaced that side. I guess I need to pull that caliper and rebuild, but both sides getting hot is what has me stumped…
Should not, no. The two calipers are independent. As a reminder, did you make certain the release lever is not holding the brakes on as a result of (say) pulling the break-away cable or bleeding the brakes? When you move the master cylinder pushrod with a screwdriver, the little latch you see will grab the pushrod and keep the brakes on, even if pressure is removed from the breakaway cable. If you press the little tab that is right in front of the hole where you use the screwdriver to press the master cylinder pushrod, and you here a noticeable “click” you probably just fixed the problem. From a diagnosis perspective, if BOTH brakes are overheating, it is likely that the problem is actuator-related, either the break-away issue I mentioned above, or else the master cylinder itself is sticking. Notice I said “likely” but not “guaranteed”. One can always get rust on both caliper pistons and when you push em back in to replace pads, then both can stick. But Id certainly find and press that breakaway release first…2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
Im not sure we are talking about the same actuator. I have the UFP A-60 and I dont see a screwdriver slot or any lever of any kind.I know my old Cat had a lock out for backing up…EDIT: I looked up a diagram of the actuator and I see the slot you are referring to.I just bled the brakes by pushing the coupler in…It slides right in when the bleeder valve is cracked open.Last edited by neilb on July 14th, 2017, 2:16 am, edited 2 times in total.
There is no lock out on the UFP coupler. The older Attwood Mobile had a locking pin. To lock a UFP there is an added part to secure the coupler from traveling, it is included in the black delivery satchel when new.
The a-60 is what I am talking about. NOT the lockout pin, but the breakaway release that is underneath the bottom of the coupler. You said you had bled the brakes in your original post. To bleed them, you normally insert a screwdriver in the hole near the front of the actuator (behind the coupler itself). You normally insert a flat screwdriver into that hole, with the blade at a 45 degree angle pointing upward and toward the front of the trailer (away from the boat). Once the blade gets behind the master cylinder pushrod, you pry the handle forward, which moves the MC pushrod rearward and pushes fluid to the calipers. Is this how you bled em? If so, right next to that hole there is a small tab hanging down. You need to press this to RELEASE the MC pushrod, so that you can then pump it again to continue bleeding.If you forget to release that pushrod, the brakes stay on and will NEVER release.If you have the A-60 instructions, which are available online, go to page 24 and theres a picture showing the small hole in the bottom for the screwdriver (they show a prybar but most are too wide, in fact many screwdrivers are too wide to fit).Hope that helps…Heres the top of the first page of the PDF for the instructions:OWNER’S MANUAL ANDUSER’S INSTRUCTIONSMODELS A-60, A-75 & A-84 HYDRAULIC BRAKE ACTUATORSI have the A-60, same as yours… BTW a little more confusion in your post. Pressing the entire actuator works, but you have to do it this way:1. press the actuator.2. open the bleed screw3. when the actuator stops moving close the bleed screw4. THEN, and only THEN release the pressure on the actuator. If you release the actuator before closing the bleed screw, you suck air right back in to the caliper. If you do it this way, you can only do it with two people, one to move the actuator, one to loosen/tighten the bleed screw, and they have to be highly coordinated as in press actuator — open bleed screw — close bleed screw when actuator stops compressing — close bleed screw — release actuator and then repeat until zero bubbles come out of the bleed screw. Dont forget to keep the reservoir full or you will end up bleeding forever if you keep letting air get in there.It is FAR easier to use the screwdriver as described in their instructions. To move the actuator you are fighting a spring and a very stiff shock absorber that prevents the clunking problem.Last edited by oldtimer57 on July 14th, 2017, 4:06 am, edited 3 times in total.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
Thanks for your patience oldtimer,Sorry to beat a dead horse but I keep going back to the fact hat I couldnt compress the caliper without cracking the bleeder valve. I will check this again to verify. Is the actuator servicable, or do you have to just replace it?
First, the actuator has to retract all the way to relieve pressure. If that little locking tab is engaged, this cant happen. I would suspect that your problem is either related to that, or the MC itself is bad. You can replace the MC for about $50 IIRC. BCB will sell you the entire actuator for $160, which includes everything including the solenoid, all assembled. Second, you can replace any part in the actuator easily enough. But at some time you might want to replace the whole thing just to get all new parts in there.When you cant compress the cylinder without bleeder open, sounds like everything is already pressurized. You dont want to drive like that as things are going to get real hot, real quick. Hot enough to boil the hub lube and/or blow a tire…First, check the little latch by looking under the tongue and pressing it upward with your finger. It will move easily. If you hear a click when you press it, you might have just fixed the problem. If you hear nothing, you can still try to press the actuator to see if it released silently. More likely not. At this point you probably have a problem inside the MC, with a port clogged with trash or something. You will know when this is right, because if you remove the filler plug and look in the reservoir with a flash light, when you push on the actuator, the first 1/8″ of travel or so will produce a swirl type motion in the reservoir. But only the first 1/8″ of travel or so. Beyond that, all fluid goes back to the calipers. Until you see that swirl at the beginning, things are not yet right.Last edited by oldtimer57 on July 16th, 2017, 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
If you cannot compress your calipers without opening a bleed screw, then that means that you have a restriction either in the caliper, or in the lines or possibly the actuator. More than likely it is a small piece of trash or rust in the caliper or line acting like a check valve.
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