3 Way Cutoff/Jump Start Swithc Installation Completed.

This topic has 7 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 2 months ago by CrappieCat1.

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April 3, 2018 at 3:11 am #434365

RazorCat
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Finished the installation of a 3 way BEP 701S switch (finally) in my 2007 Sabre FTD. Same switch used on the Ranger 3 way switch.Ordered a 4” piece of Starboard, pre-drilled for the mounting screws, and switch, and mounted it to the rear seat post. Bought 4 gauge tinned cable with HD double wall tinned terminals pre-made from GenuineDealz.com. Perfectly crimped and sealed with adhesive shrink wrap. Highly recommended for pre-made cables and supplies.And you can customize the terminals for different size posts as I needed 5/16” at switch and 3/8” at the batteries.I used laminated plastic tags to label the positions of the switch since it had to installed with the start battery wired to #2, and the TMs wired to #1 as dictated by the battery positioning in the bilge. Still might reposition or route the wiring differently, but it’s operational, and does what it’s designed to do. I love a project. Sorry for the closeup pictures. Tight quarters in the bilge.Thank you to John Jones at Jone’s Trolling Motor for clarifying the connections on the TM batteries. Thank you John.

April 3, 2018 at 5:00 pm #434366

Redngoo
Participant

Nice clean looking job! Been one of my “todos” for a while. Just hard to find the time.

April 3, 2018 at 8:07 pm #434367

BamaCat
Participant

Nice job. What is the white mounting plate made from? Where did it come from?

April 4, 2018 at 12:58 am #434368

RazorCat
Participant

BamaCat wrote:Nice job. What is the white mounting plate made from? Where did it come from?King Starboard from Boaters Outfitters. Wasn’t cheap, but it was what I needed for my install. A 4x4x1” thick piece with one side beveled was around $21.00.

April 4, 2018 at 3:21 pm #434369

CrappieCat1
Participant

Not being familiar with this switch, I’m hoping someone can give me a quick 101. Also wondering how the R boats utilize this switch in the factory set up? My buddy has one on his center console boat. I saw if you are running 2 starting/running batteries you can switch between the two as well as using one to jump with. My question is more using it with a running / trolling battery set up. (24v trolling w/ 2 batteries) Would there be a time you would switch to #2 (Trolling) battery to run your pumps/electronics throughout the day? Second, if you needed to jump the starter battery by selecting #1&#2 position, would there be an issue for that split second when you switch back to battery #1 and the engine loses the 12v supply? Could it possible die? Then guessing if you are using a 36v (3 battery) trolling set up, the switch wiring would be different and would go to the middle battery for battery #2. Thanks in advance for the info.

April 4, 2018 at 4:46 pm #434370

tdobb
Participant

CrappieCat, as far as the engine dying, that shouldnt happen. When you use the switch you are providing a temporary jump between a trolling motor battery to the main starting battery. You are not disconnecting power from the main starting battery to the engine in any way, so as soon as you start the engine your alternator is going to be pumping juice back to the starting battery, so when you switch you are not cutting ties to the starting battery, just killing the jump.One thing to remember when dealing with 24 and 36 volt systems is that jumping the batteries does not make a 12v battery into a 24v or 36v battery. When measured at the terminals you will still have 12-14.4v at each battery. But when you measure from Pos on battery 1 and Neg on battery 2 you will have 24-28v. I have been asked that question dozens of times by friends. In my old tin boat I have 2 deep cycles with a jumper between them and a 24v Maxxum t-motor up front. I run the graphs off the deep cycles as it has a pull start engine. I have one graph hooked to each battery along with running the anchor and nav lights (again one on each battery). On the graphs I keep the voltage displayed so I always know where I am at for voltage at each battery. Dont end up with any interference from the trolling motor or anything, but that can vary widely from case to case.

April 5, 2018 at 2:55 am #434371

RazorCat
Participant

Here’s the Ranger diagram for a 36V system with the Switch wired.The second set of diagrams (I used Modified Drawing #2) show a 24V system wired to the 3 pole switch. The TM positive (+) terminal that’s jumpered to the negative (-) terminal on the other TM battery is connected to the #2 battery post on the switch. I connected the negative (-) from the same TM battery to the negative (-) on the start battery (same ground wire terminal going directly to the TM). Hope that makes sense.

April 5, 2018 at 8:12 pm #434372

CrappieCat1
Participant

Thanks tdobb and RazorCat for the information…
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