about scratches and scuff marks

This topic has 9 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 2 months ago by SenkoSeis.

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April 7, 2010 at 6:19 pm #264322

BCP3VMAX
Participant

I have some marks that wont buff out with rubbing compound ( 3M Perfectit II ). So thinking i need to wet sand these areas? None are deep enough to be into the flake. Have 1600 and 2000 grit paper plus a rubber sanding block. Do i use a forward/backward motion or a circuler motion when doing this? Thanks

April 7, 2010 at 6:36 pm #264323

dbasketman
Participant

Try Aquabuff 2000, or a Magic Eraser first.

April 7, 2010 at 6:38 pm #264324

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

Id call the plant and ask Bobby or Gary.I would go across the thing at 90 degrees and then go lighter and lighter. So Id use the 1000 dry then 1200 wet and then goto rubbing compound(paste 3m) then maybe a magic eraser then meguiars 1 and 2 step and then wax. I asked the master of all glass work the other day and he told me 1200 was as fine as he went usually on paper. To me the key is slowly stepping finer and finer to get where you want. I am surprised the rubbing compound wouldnt take it out. The stuff I use with hard quick pushes will take me to flake if I work hard enough.What colors are you talking about working over?C.O.D. Jr. III

April 7, 2010 at 6:38 pm #264325

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

Lightly, very lightly. There is not much clear coat, and you will be into the flake. BCB

April 7, 2010 at 6:52 pm #264326

BCP3VMAX
Participant

Colors are Candy Apple Red and Pewter. Never thought about the Magic Eraser! Gonna go give it a try right now! Sanding scares me!!!

April 7, 2010 at 9:59 pm #264327

FireIsHot
Participant

I cant emphasize the lightly statement enough.I had the same scratches on my Classic, and heres what I did:1) 3M Marine Rubbing compound2) 3M Finesse-It3) 3M Marine Color/Gloss restorerAll were done with a non orbital buffer, and I really kept it moving. Any scratches that were left, were just left. But, there were very few. Ive hit the flake before on other boats, and its almost impossible to kick your own rear end. And you will want that kick.

April 8, 2010 at 12:50 am #264328

clownshoes
Participant

Fire I asked Gary about the buffer for rubbing compound as I thought that was the way to go too. He wont use them- worried hell get the height of what he is removing wrong. I asked him what he used to get the clear coat down and he handed me a large bucket with various sanding blocks. It made my shoulder hurt just looking at it.I was shocked he did all of his work by hand except the painting and the actual buffing/waxBCP3 the other option is that if the clear is that deeply scratched you could clear coat the scratches, then rubbing compound down the excess clear coat to fit the height as well-C.O.D. Jr. III

April 8, 2010 at 12:04 pm #264329

FireIsHot
Participant

I guess the buffer deal came from all my years in the car business. Sanding blocks really scare me, but I agree that it should keep the height closer. This whole process just really seems to boil down to patience and conservative expectations.I really try to determine which is a gouge, and which is just an abrasion to the clear coat.If I had any doubts, I agree with Ward and would certainly go with what BCBs recommends.

April 8, 2010 at 5:11 pm #264330

Barry Houser
Participant

What about the black marks that a trailering covers straps leave on the side of a white hull ? What do yall recommend for those ?

April 8, 2010 at 5:44 pm #264331

SenkoSeis
Participant

Try a Mr. Clean magic eraser, they work great in getting scuff marks off on white hulls!
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