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YANKECAT.
Hey all, Recently got my new to me 05 PIV CAT w/Optimax. Unfortunatly the only water Ive seen it on is the drool on my garage floor! I am intersted if anyone or any one knows of Amsoil marine products being used in a DFI. (HPI) oil and (AGM) in the lower end. If so do you notice a difference? I am considering making the switch after I get used to the boat and get some solid data.
The only SOLID data Ill offer is Ive ran Amsoil since the early 80s in several engines and never popped one of them. When I bought an Opti I was told by two VERY REPUTABLE dealers to run Opti oil. After having problems and seeing the Merc Tech Rep go to the bilge to check which oil I was running I was glad I had Opti oil in the tank. I cant swear it made a difference in coverage, but they did not hesitate to honor the warranty to the fullest and then some. Im not sure why Merc is so picky on their oil? When I am out of warranty Ill go back to the HPI oil, until then its just not worth taking the chance on an oil that “exceeds TCWIII rating”.
So John why do you think Mercury or Yamaha has a fully synthetic oil for their Higher Performance motors? They have now brought out a fully synthetic oil for the 4 Strokers, and after the 10hour break in all of my customers are changed over, but on the Optimax they run the blend, I thought you may know why that is? You are 100% correct in using Opti or Premiumm plus while in warranty period, especially when they blow up, the last thing you want in the oil reservoir is something else….I was talking to a guy today that has always been a Yamaha guy, and has been treated great by service when his power head had some repitive issues, but we couldnt figure out why they still run regulat old 2M Yamalube, the same stuff that a 1987 Yamaha 50 2 stroke ran? I feel that oil is obviuosly tremendously important to 150 and up hp motors,whether on a Bass Boat or a Tri Toon Pontoon, those motors are being rang out time and time again, and we all know that 100% synthetic is the best, whether it is Royal Purple (who supposedly makes XD-100), Amsoil, Mobil 1 or the Walmart brand…..Heck I started using the XD-100 in my 50:1 mixer 1982 Johnson V4 140 because the previous owner did not know about decarbing motors or running great oil, dude after 1 day of running it my prop shaft and white paing where the split exhaust comes out was clean and shiny…..Not to mention the smoke is way way less, even in my Non EPA friendly gas guzzler, and obviously it runs better, my point is do you think that they dont want to risk the wear issue or ??????? I heard you had a great time on your recent trip, Im trying like heck to come down to the OI to be able to meet you and Tom Moore, and some of the others that are ghosts on the net….BrannonYour Signature …
Is there any verbage anywhere that says my warranty is void if I use other oils that exceed TCWIII rating? Can any motor manufacture treat me differently because I dont use there oil? Royal Purple is making a big splash in the outboard circles and likebworner says every one is comming out with a syntetic line. If you do a little digging youll easily see that not all synthetics are created equaly. I guess what JohnM17 is saying is dont rock the boat, even though it may be better for the motor/performance. I appreciate your input and will most likely do the same unless I hear what I want to hear ha ha
My owners manual calls for a TCW3 rated oil, if you have a warranty claim you MUST be running a TCW3 rated oil. Ive ran Amsoil for over 20 years in everything from weedeaters to 4 wheelers and of course my cars. Heck even Bombardier doesnt rate their XD100 oil last time I looked, BUT its their oil so its OK to run in THEIR motors. Here is a list of the TCW3 rated oils for 2008 http://www.nmma.org/certification/progr … Code&d=ASC Once I get out of warranty Ill go back to Amsoil, I am a firm believer in full synthetics, until then its just not worth the chance. When I had a HPDI I did not worry about it, my dealer told me Yamaha was cool with Amsoil, I ran it in OMC and Bombardier, never had one of them ask what oil I was using on a service call. I was told Mercury DID care, indeed when I was having problems they checked the oil tank. They cannot void a warranty as long as you are running one of the TCW3 rated oils on the list, “exceeds TCW3 rating” is another story. Why take the chance when once the Tech Rep verified I had done everything i was supposed to do including proper breakin they were literally overnighting parts in to get me back on the water? If you are running an Opti I assure you the ECM will tell all LOL.
They can not say they wont because of the brand of oil you run, though if there is a border line issue in the future on a gearcase, propeller or other issue, there will be a notation on the engine warranty records. Then if you maybe are asking a favor, less leniency will be offered. If you run TC3 and have an issue, they have to cover that part and that part only as an NMMA member. BCB
good stuff guys. very insightful for the average joe who knows very little (okay…absolutely nothing) about outboard mechanics.
As usual great explanation, just another reason I chose a Basscat, answers STRAIGHT FROM THE SOURCE! The favor I was asking was PLEASE, PRETTY PLEASE get me back on the water before the weekend. I think three days was the longest the motor was ever down. Mercury Marine made a customer out of a DIE HARD Yamaha man during that process. If running their products is what they ask to keep that level of service Ill gladly run em Yankee, to answer your original question. I ran the gear oil and the Amsoil going all the way back to the old 100-1 mix in everything from a 25 hp motors, 175 Loopers, Mercs, Yamahas, I think Ive owned everything but a Chrysler at one time or another. Ive heard all kinds of tales of gains of extra RPMs etc… AT MOST I MAY have see a gain of 100 RPMs and that is a MAYBE, the analog tachs are not that accurate. You will see a cleaner burn with less carbon buildup! Changing a water pump impellor with synthetics normally involves wiping the shaft off with a paper towel vs cleaning it off with a solvent to slide the new impellor down the shaft. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and I like to take my boat to the dealer for service. I know I can do it myself BUT when it comes time to need my dealer its awful hard to ask for a favor when the last time they saw you was on date of sale. Plus it gives me the chance to chat with my mechanic on all the new stuff coming out LOL. The Merc oils are semi-synthetic. IMHO the performance part comes in on a COLD morning when the oil can thicken in the tank. Its very important to fully warm up these DFI engines, that includes getting the thermostats open when you first take off and letting all the parts come up to temp. I think the synthetics flow better in the tight tolerances. Ive NEVER picked up any speed by running Amsoil, or any other oil for that matter, youd have to be running a light hull and an engine capable of turning way more RPMs than these stock bass motors to see that benefit. Run what you like, just run a decarb agent every tank, I also run the Marine Stabil every tank to help with the alcohol and your motor should last longer than youll keep it no matter what brand youre running.
Thanks guys, good clear answers and some very helpfull advise, and fast too! Just what I needed . . . not to mention yet another confirmation I made the correct choice in a bass boat.
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