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Jstew.
I put this on BBC and here Im hoping someone with the same boat has had a similar experienceok Ive been driving boats a while now and let me say that there has been no change to my style of driving or set upI have a 2010 basscat p2 with a200mercury I run a25 tempest I have a detwiller hydro plate seastar hydro from new and I havent changed any settings any where this is happening at all stages, the plate completely down and raised half up on the gage. the same as Ive driven hundreds of hours with this engineRight around 53-55 mph the backend gets loose and feels if It wants slide out side to side not like it wants to hook but like a side to side movement like when you let off the throttle which I dont, or if youve driven in current like a current push I let off, trim down and it doesnt happen any longer. Seems like I do have to over trim a bit to get the speeds I want more then in past, when I do another run and I aggressively trim without stopping it doesnt seem to happen as much which leads me to think only when I reach that speed and Im not trimming the engine does it happenHeres what Ive had donehad plugs changed, had a diagnostic on the engine (all good) had the jp checked and all bolts checked, fluids checked all ok ive been told the boat hull engine and jp are all finethe only thing a guy told me who experienced the same was that he hydraulic lining inner and outer wall have separated causing not enough fluid This issue doesnt happen as I spool the engine and other then having to slightly over trim in the 65-70 mph its okAny advise or has anyone experienced this? thanks
It is an indication of the propeller being too low. The hull feels like it reached for a gear and slips slightly right. It feels like it moved a few feet though it only moves a few inches max. The propeller being too low and the upper circle blades surface, then air enters the propeller stream and bite changes to one side of the propeller. Engine height is directly measured by steering torque. With a hydraulic plate you can focus where it should run and stay in that range with slight tweaks to enhance performance around that mainstay. The torque should be just slight on top end when the propeller is the right height. Hydraulic jack plates are tools and are not toys. You learn to use tools and continually play with toys. Figure out how to use the plate and do not use the segment below the optimum range unless rough water indicate you need to drop it. BCB
Im 100% convinced its not a driving issue, for years Ive driven the boat In the same fashion same settings nothing with my driving habits has changed
CHECK THE BOTTOM FOR GEL COAT MISSING.A SMALL SPOT CAN CAUSE THIS WHEN THE BOAT IS TRIMED JUST RIGHT.
aniceguy wrote:Im 100% convinced its not a driving issue, for years Ive driven the boat In the same fashion same settings nothing with my driving habits has changedThis is purely hypothetical but is it possible you think you are putting the JP in the same spot and it has changed according to what the gauge is reading? Not sure how accurate the JP gauge is or how well it stays synced over the years. Just thinking out loud. I do like what BCB had to say about Tools & Toys. There is a Big difference!Dan
We dont totally understand? Is this something different? Is this a new plate, different boat, or something we dont know? We dont know each boat individually and people assume one poster does everything. We have had several different people posting. Gary passed last year and we had several others who did post and either are no longer there or others moved positions. We are not all in tune with each rig you guys own and there are several posting who were not around when some last mentioned what they have. Each answer given here is tuned around the knowledge each of us has about either the rig our mentioning, the experiences your sharing, or our individual knowledge of your rig when we do have it. Thus we have a variety of answers to questions depending on these details.
My 99 Classic did this when the engine was too high.
Prop needs to be worked. Its lost cup and lift. What was a good height on the JP is too low with the prop not picking up the stern. Regardless of how a prop looks – after a few years they all need a reset. JMHO
Great-post Jstew, good job thanks for letting this guy and all searchers know for a correct possibility answer to every bass boaters needs when they post why my boat is running slower and I havent changed nothing. Remember we can go across a Sand bar and the prop looks like we polished it….. but we can remove some of the cup off one blade by pushing that sand and never see it, rework my props every two years if I dont dig them my self but this only happened once, the two year deal, and that boat went 4 miles faster but the performance in all fazes of running the boat were better, especially the hole shot which I think we all follow and relate to but dont look at when theirs no physical damage to the prop and start blaming other things.. thanks again jstew!!!! Too much coffee this morning for me !!!!!
Thanks Captain. Dude – you did find the coffee. Until Ive visited with prop guys, I didnt know how much flexing is happening every rotation of the props blades against the water under power. The prop is gradually losing pitch and cup. The bigger the diameter – the more flexing is taking place. A tempest is a pretty big prop. I just know that, no matter how I take care of my props, within 2 years – they lose their lift & performance. I sent them in to be trued and the old prop is awake again. Always good for 2-3mph, much better holeshot & lift. Wanna really wake it up – have it blueprinted. Youll think you have a new boat.
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