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cajun catter.
I have noticed alot of the new boats from the facebook site are coming off the line with what looks like the older style bow rollers (the clear/yellowish ones). Are these of new design (softer) or are they the same as the old ones from years ago?
Tipmaryland, I have an 06 Classic. I had the same problem for a while. First, I installed the “no gap” roller kit. That helped a bunch. Then I realized what was causing the problem was me. I put my trailer a little further down the ramp and slowed down while driving the boat on. Unless conditions are really bad this fixes the problem. Im not saying youre doin anything wrong, but I dont think you have to spend anymore money to stop the damage. Good luck with that and “Hookem Hard.” LR Mike
Sounds like you are putting your trailer in too deep and when you goose it up to the roller, your motor is turned to one side. How far are you backing the trailer in the water? If a tandem, leave about an inch of the rear tire above water, ease the boat on the trailer and shift into neutral. As the boat goes up and settles, straighten your motor, trim it up and it should go straight on. Big problem when the motor is not straight. I have never had a gap roller and no problems with mine.
Good advice given above. Something else that is hard to get used to (guilty as charged on my 99 Classic) is the V on the boat doesnt line up with the nose of the top cap. You need to align things up slightly different. Almost over by the troller. Look at what the boat looks like on the trailer and try to line it up that way…the offset messes me up on those smaller boats on loading but once you look it will fall together. Sorry for the damage. Judd Lasiter
Thanks everyone for the GREAT advice! I will be sure to try out all my new tips. To answer the question of how far im putting the trailer in the water, i usually make sure the smaller boat bunks are sticking out of the water a few inches. I will use my rear tire as a guage next time… Thanks again
I heard a prop guy say once, the most stress you “ever” can put on your prop while on the lake is when loading your boat on the trailer. Since then, I try to never run the boat all the way to the bow roller. I come close and try to crank it up the last couple inches. Every ramp is a little different though, along with the weather conditions. I know this may not fix your issue but maybe help in the future. My new fury has a lot of juice loading now, so I need to be extra careful myself as well.
basschaser wrote: Good advice given above. Something else that is hard to get used to (guilty as charged on my 99 Classic) is the V on the boat doesnt line up with the nose of the top cap. You need to align things up slightly different. Almost over by the troller. Look at what the boat looks like on the trailer and try to line it up that way…the offset messes me up on those smaller boats on loading but once you look it will fall together. ******************************************************************************************************************** This is really the key. The keel is offset from the bow on BassCats and it takes some getting used to. Once you get the trailer depth figured out, then just tweak the throttle till the keel lines up correctly with the bow roller, then do a final push of throttle to snug it up those last few inches, or you can winch it up the rest of the way if you choose.
Im with brewcat on this one. Dont try to power load all the way up. Put the trailer in a little shallower & just try to get the nose up close, then use the winch to finish the job. You might have to back the trailer down a couple more feet to be able to winch it up all the way, but this is the safest way to avoid damage. By backing the trailer in a little shallower at first, the boat is much easier to get lined up on the bunks properly.
This one has been on here many times. Originally in those times these rollers were not available. We actually cut each roller with a router table for this application. No one makes this roller in this style. The thicker steel bow arms (3/8″) are what allow the boat to get in between those rollers. Most are only 1/4″ or 3/16″ arms. Here are a couple of posts going back before that roller was available, referred to this situation and before we had the jig made to cut the rollers. http://basscatowners.yuku.com/topic/2191 http://basscatowners.yuku.com/reply/6573#reply-6573 http://basscatowners.yuku.com/reply/6630#reply-6630
JSLAW, There is a move back to a urethane roller at BCB, and the new roller is a bit softer, also the backing coat on the newer models is more adherent and does not have as much shearing from the gel coat. On 1998 through 2004 models we would stay with rubber. BCB
Will the new rollers be available on line soon??Ron
does anyone own one that actually ROLLS when the boat is riding up the trailer? i know mine sure doesnt, nor did the original black roller that came on the trailer. i just call them STOPPERS…seems more appropriate to me.
That is the intent is as a bumper or skid. We would get a Vee flat plane rubber stop if one would fit the hull properly.
really helps, i find… but i still have a v carved out of my yellow “stopper”.
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