Bow Roller

Judds answer of notching the rollers is best, though we are hesitant to do a rudimentary cut job on rollers for a new boat. We prefer to do no hatchet work on this at BCB.We also recently this month spoke to a company about a plate with holes for the bow eye for protecting the bow, though that is a project for long term future. The yellow ones impact the bow eye and cause the gel to chip as well as leaving the marking. Though the marking will rub off with your hand and fingers only usually. The black ones do not damage the hull, are softer, last less time, and cost less for replacements. The reason we went back to black was to reduce bow damage from hard loading which chips the gel coat. BCBi copied this from 09 post, anyways i know the black ones dont last as long, i was just surprised to see that yellow one there

PhilAddison wrote:The black one is softer and scratches less, but doesnt last very long. Since it doesnt last as long, some dont notice that it splits/tears and it causes the keel to contact the thru bolt thus damaging keel.Thats what happened to mine, split and the bow made its way through to the bolt and was chipped in two places. $250 bucks to fix the chips!

There is a later post that explains the newer softer yellow rubber with shock veins, which is in between the black and softer than thE solid urethane rollers. Simply put, newer stuff!

A jack and a board underneath, or a engine hoist and a strap on the bow to lift the boat a little, and the change is simple.

Another thing you can do that helps. I bought a long bolt that fit where the roller goes, with two nuts and washers sized correctly. With roller out, run bolt through hole on one side and then add a washer and nut and just snug it up. Before snugging, add the second nut followed by the washer. Now with the bolt inserted correctly, you have a washer and nut on the head end of the bolt, then a nut/washer on the other end. Snug up the head end first, then run the other nut out until it contacts the roller bracket. Now with two wrenches, continue to turn that nut and very slightly spread the roller bracket. When you get it right, the roller will fit reasonably tightly without any binding. Remove the bolt and nuts, and install the original bolt and you are done. Do NOT gorilla-tighten the bolt through the roller or you will undo the fix you just did. Now when you pull the boat on, the roller will roll rather than sliding on the hull, and wont leave any transfer of material or scratches…Much easier with boat in water, but you can do it loaded, but might need a floor jack and 2×6 to slightly raise bow to remove pressure from roller during removal/installation…

That is correct.

I always buy my replacements from the bcb store! I had a friend(brother in law) which has a r boat ask me about the stolz. I just needed varification from bcb before mentioning (sticking my foot in my mouth) to him wat i had read.