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BCBThe handle on my live well switch broke on my 2013 p2The cable seems to be intact, as I can operate from the valve end to open / close and it is also moving at the switch.Can I order just the handle or will it only come with a complete switch?Also, while researching topics on the switch repair I can across a post (“live well not holding water”)referencing that there should be a nut on the cable.mine does not have this nut and I am assuming ordering a new one will include
The valve switch cable all come as one unit last I ordered one. But, you may be able to take the round turn knob off the new set up and replace the broken one without the trouble of running a new cable assuming the old cable is in good condition. I didnt notice this until I had already run a new cable which was a PIA. There are two screws that can be removed (unless the design has changed since 07) from back of round dial so can replace with new one. Hold cable for future use.Re a nut on the cable, there should be a C clamp type devise near the valve in the bilge area. This holds the cable in place so cable slides inside the conduit opening/closing the valve. You may have to adjust the cable clamp to find the setting where the valve completely closes and opens to let water out assuming you can get to the screw on the C clamp. I cant on mine so Im always traveling with half a live well of water unless I remember to pump it out. The good part is when fishing a tournament, always water in the live well when I catch my first fish…… I was going to fix it but I kind of like not having to rush to pump water in when I catch the first fish and can go right back to fishing and play with pumps/circulation settings when things settle down. If I dont have any fish in live well I just pump out the water before while getting ready to take off.
I will call parts on Monday to see what they have available.In the mean time, Ive pulled the broken shaft from the switch plate and used Goriila super glue to put it back together. Im waiting till tomorrow to put it back together and see if it holds. That is some of the strongest glue I have ever used and it has held up for me before, but this is a little different with the torque of twisting the switch, so Ill see.The cable is not broken, because after it broke I was opening the valve in the bilge and I saw today when it was pulled from the panel that the switch side still moves when I do this.ive read that replacing a broken cable is not easy, depending on if it was originally installed zip tied to something else on it way to the back.The attached picture was posted by BCB saying they are supposed to be pre-assembled with the extra nut to keep it from coming disconnected at the switch.i just need to make sure I have the switch in the correct position for empty or auto fill.thx
Whoops, 3 screws. I think you can just switch out the dials and be good to go. We tend to over turn pushing the dial harder then we need to when the dial really isnt that hard to turn. It happens a lot.
Common problem. Ive replaced a couple of them and yes, parts sends the whole kit and kaboodle including a new cable. Oh, and its always been “no charge”. Says a lot about BCB.Last edited by apdriver on March 27th, 2016, 5:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
These area part we asked years ago about ending its life cycle due to durability. The straight is choke cable type and this style both are more fragile than we would like. We ran a poll and it was almost 90% in favor of the valve versus a drain plug and manual system. A few companies we are aware have a manual system and we always felt it simpler, easier to manage and less failure. Though bass anglers resoundingly supported staying with the valve. BCB
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