“I also rewired everything.
The bus bar in the rear was charged to large stainless steel bus bars, one for possitive and one for the negative.
From there I ran two 12 gauge lines to the main switch. The main switch was replaced with a double pole double throw switch to supply the dash and a fuse panel that was installed under the dash. The fuse panel supplies protected power to the all the graphs radios and other accessories.
Maybe BCB will look at having better power distribution with individual fuse protection.”
Thanks Dwayne. After some thinking last night. And reviewing some past forums on here. I realized that buss bar also runs to the bow of the boat on 10gauge wire to another buss bar.
I think what I’ll do is remove the buss bar under the console that’s connected with 6gauge wire and connect the +/- wire to a 12 pin marine grade fuse block. From there, ill distribute what ever 10g wires to the bow, console and starboard compartment. If I blow a fuse, It’s easy to access under the console instead of having to change a fuse at the bow on independent fuses under the trolling motor pedal and such.
6 gauge is rated for 50 amps at 11.8ft length.which is basically less then that from the back to the console. The most amps I’ll be pulling all together will be 20amps from the block.
Hopefully this is okay and doesn’t cause interference. I’m curious if basscat can comment on this for their opinion. I’d be curious on information from the console buss bar back and what’s that connected too. Not sure if it’s connected to the master switch under my Yamaha shifter.
.
