A couple of things are not clear… 1. the skeg should be perfectly straight, from where it comes off of the gearcase to the tip. If you put a straightedge in the middle, it should lie flat all the way down. 2. the trailing edge of the skeg has a little “right rudder” built in to counteract the “crabbing effect” caused by the prop torque. This “right rudder” shows up as the trailing edge of the skeg being bent to the right when looking from the rear. But the bend is uniform. If the thing gets bent, I would not think about bending it back. This is hardened aluminum and it does “not” like “working”. To bend it back, it needs to be heated first and that is a job for someone that is used to doing it. Otherwise you can go from a bent skeg to no skeg in about 2 seconds. And that will affect the steering on the boat and make things quite “interesting” at any speed from idle to WOT. I have seen a couple get bent back successfully and then disappear into the river at some point later. I have seen a couple that got bent back and seemed to be OK. Id rather take it to a shop that does L/U repairs (a good prop shop generally does this as they are used to installing nose cones, and repairing lower units as a daily operation.)2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
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