Drilling Fiberglass

This topic has 6 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 17 years ago by Corky.

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June 8, 2009 at 12:19 am #329117

tschooler1956
Participant

Changing Aluminum drain plug insert 08 Puma to new screw in stainless steel insert and plug. Any help on this change will be appreciated. Will have to cut knurl off of old insert and replace with the new insert. Going to have to enlarge hole for new insert and drill holes in transom for new insert. All this is new to me enlarging the hole and drilling into the fiberglass. Was hoping someone has made the change and give any expert advice on how to cut the old insert out and drill the holes, ouch. Thanks in advance. Tom

June 8, 2009 at 3:07 am #329140

Corky
Participant

I am not being critical of you in any way, but why do you wish to change out the drain plug? Is the one in the boat not working correctly. I have the metal drain plug on my 09 Puma FTD and I like it, but it did cause a problem with leaking on my boat, as there was no gasket or seal on the plug. I was shocked at the amount of water that it allowed in the boat, and I suspected that something else was leaking as well. After putting a gasket on the plug, it allowed no more water in the hull of the boat. If you are not experiencing difficulty with the plug already on the boat, I probably would not change it. That is just my opinion, and my opinion along with 50 cents will buy you a cup of coffee. Good luck with whatever decision you make. Corky

June 8, 2009 at 3:36 am #329157

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

The aluminum insert is turning thru itself not letting me tighten or loosen the drain plug and the fiberglass bond behind the insert has been compromised. So it is a new aluminum in sert or the new style. Was hoping the new style was better. Thanks for he tip on the gasket. Had a screw in plug on a 86 Ebbtibe Dyna Trac, no problem there.

June 8, 2009 at 4:15 am #329180

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

The insert will pop into the hull with a screw driver and a hammer. Just use it on one edge of the flange, and the drain tube will be tapped into the bilge. You can compress the ends together so it folds into the center, and drive it into the hull. The replacement is harder, we would stuff cheap body putty into the hole and redrill it with the right size for the new drain tube. Be sure you seal the outside edge in the fiberglass when you insert the new tube assembly. Corky must have been missing the O-Ring on the screw in drain tube. We really like the 1″ drain tube, though we have had several requests for the plastic screw ins. Once Attwood made this newer style and we were shown the prototype a few years back, it was a better option to the plastic ones. More expensive obviously, though much more appealing and durable than molded plastic ones.

June 9, 2009 at 2:19 am #329208

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

BassCat: You called it perfectly. The O ring (gasket) either fell off or was not on my drain plug. Put a new O-ring (gasket) on there and it now works perfectly. When my dealer said that it was only the o-ring, I thought to myself (well, actually, I think I said it out loud too) that for just an o-ring an awful lot of water was coming in the boat. When I tried it out, my dealer was correct again. The bilge now stays pretty darned dry. I really like my boat, my dealer, and those guys that manufactured the boat. Mr. Pierce, Ivan, and company may just be stuck with me forever. Corky

June 9, 2009 at 3:15 am #329247

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

Tis a shame, (smile) and we hope forever is along, long time…

June 9, 2009 at 11:04 pm #329274

Corky
Participant

BassCat: I too hope that forever is a long long time. Corky
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