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OK I will try to explain this as easy and with as much info as I can. I have an 05 Puma/225 Pro XS, the problem that I am having is my engine is having an intermittent starting issue. I have been having this problem once in a while for the past few months but thought it may be something I was doing. I had a tourny yesterday and the motor started fine all day but once I got back to the ramp and tried to start the motor to load up it would not start or even turn over click or nothing for that matter. It seems to be worse after a long run. The ignition beeps every time I turn it off and on so I figure I am at least getting power there. Batteries are good . Water pressure and temp are good so the engine is not overheating. Kill switch and shifter was checked also. It seems to start up fine after I let it set for 20 to 30 minutes. My question is, is there any self-resetting breakers or any thing of that nature in the ignition system? Any suggestions and advise are greatly appreciated. Thanks Ron
If I read your post correctly you have a no crank vs a not start problem. The system for cranking is set up like this. The engine has a starter relay(solenoid) on it, Pos cable to one side and then cable to starter on the other, the starter relay/solenoid is powered by the ignition switch when turned to the crank posistion. The relay/solenoid has three post one small and two large the one small is the power that come from the ignition switch. When the power is aplied to the relay/solenoid by the ign sw small wire (12v) the relay is engaged and connection is made internally to the two large post appling power to the starter. I would check all these connections to include the one at the starter. If you can get it in the no crank mode you can check several things quickly one with the cowl off you should be able to here the relay/solenoid engage. if it does than I would check the starter connection or starter (although this does not rule out the solenoid) a test light could be use to make sure when the relay is engaged 12v is at both sides of the relay/solenoid. if the relay does not engage check the connection on the small wire and see if it has 12V when the key is turned if voltage is there connection is good replace the relay/solenoid if no voltage there more than likely it is an ign. switch problem or broken wire . Higher percentage there on the switch. Good luck hope this helps… Best new is you were back when it showed up again vs out on the water.
I have seen this happen due to one of the following, multiple times: (1) poor connections, particularly the big cables going back to the engine. Powering up the electronics doesnt take much in the way of amperage, so the “beep” can work, but to hit the relay takes more, and to turn the motor over takes way more. (2) there is an interlock in the shift/throttle/ignition control that prevents turning the motor over if the motor is in gear, so you cant throw yourself overboard. If this safety switch fails, the motor wont crank. One pretty easy test is to just shift from forward to reverse to neutral and then try the starter. If it suddenly works, you need to get that part replaced. If it doesnt work, try wiggling the shift lever while turning the key to start. If it suddenly turns over, or you here some intermittent clicking from the starter relay when you wiggle the shift/throttle lever, that switch is again bad. If it has failed solidly, you ought to be able to track the wiring from the ignition switch (make sure you have +12v there) and follow it back to the motor. It is possible that the relay itself has gone out. If you get +12v there when you turn the key, and it is not “clicking” then it has most likely failed, assuming all connections are tight. By far the most common cause of “not starting” is the emergency lanyard switch. But that just kills the ignition, the motor will still turn over. BTW when you say “the battery is good” make sure you test it while you turn the ignition key. We just fixed a car where the battery showed +12.5 volts when sitting there, but turning on any sort of load at all would drop it to almost nothing, .5-1.0 volts. It looked good to a voltmeter, until you tested while applying a load.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
Topwater and Oldtimer, Thanks both for the tips. I messed around with it today in the garage and could not get it to duplicate. I checked the wiring and all the connections and voltage is all good as you guys suggested. I guess it will be a trip to the mechanic. I know from working on aircraft that these type of problems can drive a person crazy if you cant get them to duplicate. Do you guys think that it is possible that the starter soleniod may be getting hot under the cowling after the long runs then not working until it cools off? Thanks again Ron
We are with OT57 on his experience there. Top water has suggested more in depth the same. We think it tone a battery connection, faulty ignition switch, solenoid, harness connection or control start in gear protection.
I guess it will be a trip to the dealer to see if they can get it figured out. Waymac is gonna love me for this one.
Though the nice thing is that Ronnie and Mitch can figure it out, and the crew at Waymack will be glad to help. You may put up with a wee but of ribbing if it is simple, though all in fun.
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