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I just purchased my first BCB a month ago. Its a 2002 Sabre with a Mercury 150 Xr6 on the back and I absolutely love it! The previous owners informed me that the dealership they had it serviced at told them the BP2000 needed to be replaced. I thought this was odd, as everything worked, there were just some faults popping up on the screen for the nav lights, man bilge, man recirc and man aerator. The seconomy day I had it out I decided to fill the livewell and run everything as if I had it full of fish. After about 5 minutes of both man aerator and man recirc being on, they shut off and the volts on my display were reading 11.4. in an effort to not spend $400, Ive been racking my brain hoping its something else. I decided to check the specs on my cranking battery tonight when I got home. Its a 24M and only has 550 CCA. I havent checked the water level yet, but assuming thats good, could the low CCA be the cause of my faults and thus leading to the BP2000 shutting off my livewell? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
550 amps are not great but those older XR6s didnt need a lot of amps like the Optimax engines, but I am betting it is not your dash but a result of bad connections probably in the plug on the the back of the dash, and the buss bar on the inside of the transom on the drivers side, along with every pump and light. I dont believe they were using tinned wire yet and a lot of the connections get a little loose and corrode over time and do not make full contact resulting in connections getting hot and corroding even more and the end of the wire itself starts to corrode also, and bouncing while running and trailering will result in intermittent problems. I personally would start by disconnecting and cleaning every connection that I could get to, while also looking for corroded crimps on the wires and replacing as needed. I have changed and cleaned a lot of crimp connections over the years on my 01 Pantera III, it is standard maintenance that I do every winter.Also have your battery checked with a load tester to see if it is still good.JoeLast edited by 1stinLA on July 27th, 2017, 1:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Absolutely too little of a battery. The faults are either lights not in sockets, thus no power draw, or they are bad pumps most likely.
I would get a bigger battery. You have about half the battery I use. I believe that is your whole problem. Most of us use a group 31 AGM with around 1,000 CCA and 200 RC. I realize the XR6 dont require quite as much juice as the pro xs but the pumps and electronics still pull alot. Get as big as you can fit and not worry about it. Last edited by Mainliner61 on July 27th, 2017, 11:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
I would go to a 31 series battery. I have been having issues with my boat the last few months that looked like battery or dash issues. Yestorday we found the problem. I had a bad ground at the altenator. Repaired wire and added a second ground wire. ran the boat 20 min last night voltage rock solid at 14.1.
Your xr6 needs about 500 ccas by itself to crank it. If you are running any accessories like livewells, graphs, shallow water anchors, etc, then you should have at least 700 ccas. A good wet 27 series marine starting battery would do the trick, something like a Deka Marine Master 27m6 (840 ccas, 182 RC) for about 120 dollars. Dont use an AGM with the stator system in your engine. Personally, I dont believe that a 24 series battery belongs in any bassboat today.As mentioned, check and clean all connections accessible. This is probably a major contributing factor in a 15 year old rig. Poor connections at that buss bar at the back can be a source of many issues.
I believe there is a bus bar in the bilge area on the rear transom. Check for rusted and corroded connections. My 98 Jag had weird issues. After cleaning the connections, I never had another problem.
We do suggest 800-1000 CCA on that application and you have the wire size on the graph draining it down exponentially if the line drops more at the dash.
Definitely get a 31 series cranking battery. It doesnt have to be an AGM. Just make sure you check the water level in a wet cell at least every 3 months and top off as needed with DISTILLED WATER. If you get a system like this: https://flow-rite.com/battery-watering/ … /qwik-fill It makes it VERY easy to ensure the batteries always stay up to the right water level and it is a 3 minute job, once you get it all installed and hooked up.When you start cleaning connections, go to your local electrical supply store and pick up a couple of cans of contact cleaner and a tube of dielectric grease. After cleaning, put a dab of the grease on each connection as you put them back on the terminal block, Buss, etc. And smear a bit on any exposed wire. It will save you a lot of time and trouble down the road2017 Sabre FTD AE DC2017 Yamaha 175 SHOMK Fortrex 80Helix 10 Mega SI in consoleHelix 7 GPS SI GN2 on bow
Thanks for the help everybody. I put a new (and bigger) battery in last night. All of the faults are gone and my pumps never cut off today!
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