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catman 1.
1998 PII 200hp MercI was just about to finish up on this year second update Hyd Steering when before tightening the hoses and filling the system I did a full system clearance check OUCH.. is all I can say.. although I wouldnt normally tilt the engine this high I know murphy is out there.. and I had the rear engine tilt switch go bad twice since I have owned the boat put the engine in full til while running down the lake. That will flood the boat from the rear when you pull the kill switch. Ok here are the concerns and questions If the ram would of been in full turn it would of crushed into the Jack Plate also just my luck the hose fitting on this ram is turned down not level.. Questions below picuture. Is there a manual product that can be installed to limit the tilt on the engine ? was hoping not to add more electrical to go wrong but if that the way What and where does a limit switch go. My engine is in the the third hole from the top Can I raise the engine on the jack plate and then lower the jack plate back down to the before engine height or would this cause other issues hole shot becasue of jack plate being deeper into water That would help the clearance for the ram to the jack plate but not the fitting to the boat. Although the fitting doesnt hit it forces the line to drag some on the well Alum plate. and it only happens in this posistion once the engine tilt higher the ram pivoits up and away.Next if I can raise the Engine anyone have any tricks to do this without an engine lift.
Mercury makes a trim limit switch that is mercury operated and it looses contact when tilted. The steering cylinder for your application is the HC 5342 and your have a 5345 cylinder. The 5342 is probably not available open market any longer. You can also go to an 8″ plate for more clearance. We wish you had asked here first as we could have steered out in the right direction earlier.
Ouch but I always ask first. Dont like to put people names in place so I removed it from the note. I will figure out something is there problem about raising the Engine and then lowering the manual jack plate back to the orginal height. I did find some humor in your post STEERED Me in the right direction. lol Good Pun.. ———- Original Message ———-From: “Bass Cat Parts” [email protected]>To: [email protected]>Subject: Re: Steering parts Question Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 11:32:19 -0500Yes these are the hydraulic parts youll need. On the hoses youll need a 14 foot that will come out with the wiring harness in the spalshwell from the starboard side. On the Port side we drill a hole through the splash well and came out this side with the other hose. This hose is a 21 foot hose.You MIGHT be able to come out the wiring harness starboard side with both hoses, if possible you could use a shorter than the 21 foot hose. Maybe a 16 not sure. Bass Cat BoatsService / Parts —– Original Message —–From: [email protected]: [email protected]: Monday, September 10, 2012 11:08 AMSubject: Steering parts Question Considering changing my 1998 PII 200Hp 2.5 L Merc. Cable Tilt Steering over to Tilt Hyd Steering. On your site you list these components HH5290 Sea Star Sport 2.0 Hydraulic Tilt Helm &Seastar HC 5345 Hydraulic Outboard Cylinder Are These the correct components for my boat also. Next here is the big question do you know the hose lenght I will need. Thanks for any info.Dan ONeil
Well, that hurts us both. We never recommend hydraulic steering over the cable steering first. One primary reason is the clearance on the transoms for the stainless elbows, and this has been discussed here several times. Next you can run the mercury switches and restrict the tilt angle. This is a Mercury part and is also mercury activated. Finally you can go to the 8″ plate if ou so desire. The HC 5342 steering is again probably no longer in the market. You can check with parts to see if theres one in stock, though there wont be many and you will still need a trim limit switch. You will just gain some trim angle.
Well like I said well figure out something so from your view point what are the effect of me raising the Engine from center hole up one hole on the Jack Plate and then lowering the Jack Plate back down to the orignal engine height .. That would get clearance to the Cyl. I just ordered kit 87-814407A3 Mercury limit switch kit. This will be primary goal if there are no performance issues although I have to figure out a way to raise the engine or stabilize the engine in a frame and lower the boat raise it first on a floor jack or let the air out of the tires but I will figure out something Next if I went to the Eight Inch Jack plate. What the performance issue … It came with a 6″ and if I know you guys there a reason it came with a six inch.. Last lol I still could go back to the new Series 73 cable set I bought and didnt install i have on the garage sale site but just today someone sent me note on that but thats the last option.
You can install the trim limit switch that you have coming then if not satisfied go to an 8″ plate with little difference. The newer 8″ plates will be the longer six bolt rails and ou cn just use four bolts, or 6 if you choose. The older four (4) bolt plates were 6″ before BCB designed the newer longer rail plates with 6 bolt holes. The longer rails provided more support for the transom and allowed the 6 bolts. There is almost no difference in performance or otherwise, other than the fulcrum difference on the transom for durability. The longer rails prevent transom flex in the center.
Still looking for insight on this because this is the Primary in my mind From your view point what are the effect of me raising the Engine from center hole up one hole on the Jack Plate and then lowering the Jack Plate back down to the orignal engine height To me.. I would think it would have no effect but need to hear the answer from an expert. Need to get the boat back together this is the 2nd update I have done. Bucket Seats Since it came out of storage 4/6/2013 havent even got the batteries back into it or graphs on it much less its yearly major detail clean up, rub out and waxing.. Have a week in July maybe Ill go to the 8″ than and cure all my problems like the thought of better transom durability would of thought just the oppistie from leverage but also understand the longer rail support
There is no effect if the height is the same, though most of the clearance issues are with the actual transom itself. You will not move to clear the transom by raising it and lowering the plate, only clearing the plate and allowing some more down travel.Last edited by Bass Cat Boats on April 30th, 2013, 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Thank you that what I thought I will figure it out something.. right now it a 2% of the time problem but needs to be a 0%. I am commited to the hyd. I think now expecaially after putting the filler tube hole in the dash and installing the filler tube all is done except for just tightening the lines and filling.. Makes you felll like the Ham in a Ham and Eggs breakfast >>> the difference between Involvement and Commitment The chicken was involved the pig was commited. Now I need to figure out how to raise a 500lb Engine without a lift What would the world be without problems to solve. lol lol lol
went with a 2″ spacer on 6″ inch jackplate and problem was solved. spacer is a little cheaper than a 8″ jackplate and the was easy to put on.
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