Home › Forums › Bass Cat Boats › Hydraulic Steering feels stiff on my new 2008 basscat sabre
JohnM17.
I just picked up my Bass Cat Sabre a little more then a week ago. On my package I got Hydraulic steering. I am not familiar with this option so here is my anticipated expectation and please correct me if I am wrong. I expected hydraulic steering to relate more like power steering in a car. With my delivered setup it feels very stiff to turn the steering wheel running between 30-60 mph. I called my dealer and he said if I adjusted my jackplate moving my motor up (think its up per orientation notes) 1/2 that should eliminate the stiffness to turn issue. Hes probably correct I just wanted to dot my i and cross t first before I go adjusting things on my jackplate. Currently it feels like manual steering (cable steering). Can someone explain to me how hydrualic steering should feel vs. traditional cable steering? Also, I could be just a little more water time and things will be okay. Thanks in advance! misr12 misr12, Going up is the wrong direction. To reduce your torque lower it one half inch and watch your clearances as you lower the plate. Hydraulic steering is not power as it has no pump. It is a slave drive system from the steering helm, which is the master pump. There will be torque on the wheel and drag. Though if it is hard to turn, you may want it looked into and at least verified. BCBLast edited by misr12 on February 18th, 2008, 5:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Hydraulic steering on your boat and power steering in your automobile are not that comparable. Hydraulic steering is easier to turn than cable steering, but its going to be no where near power steering. If youre experiencing stiffness on the top end, then the likelihood of the engine being too high is where you should look. Its not too low. Your dealer has it backwards.
Tom, Ivan told me that the plates on the jackplate should be even across the top. He also mentioned that the distance from the top of the highest plate to the prop shaft should be 24 1/8 inches. Just something to check to see if it was setup right. Wayne
Phil, I am sure my dealer has it right and I probably have it backwards in my post…. I am new to all of this and trying to recollect what he said. WIBassman, I am not sure I understood your post. What do you mean the plates need to be even. I am a newbie. Am I correct in my understanding that the Jackplate on the motor should be even with Jackplate on the boat? Is this setting directly related to hydraulic steering? Currently, my steering is very stiff. Thanks for the info…. misr12
misr12, I think what WI Bassman is telling you is to start with the plates flush. I saw your boat at Brechs and I think that is the way it was from the factory. Phil advice is on steering “torque” at high RPMs or wide open throttle. When running wide open the wheel will be difficult to steer. If this is the case drop the motor down 1/2″. Run it again. Continue until you get to the point that the torque is gone or barely noticeable and leave the plate alone. You have reached the optimal balance. However weight in the boat will make a big difference. Load your boat like you would on tournament day. By the way your rig is a beauty. Love the blue/silver/red combo. What kind of speed and rpms are you getting out of that HO Evinrude motor? We want some pics of your rig!!! Chet
Chet, thanks for the compliments on my boat. It is one of the few times when I have made a major purchase that the end product exceeded my expectation. I cant tell you how happy I am with Bass Cat, The Bass Cat web community and Brechs Marine. Do you work there? Anyway, to drop the motor which way do you turn the single jackplate bolt after I loosen the four side bolts? Thanks so much for getting me pointed in the right direction. Once I have the jack plate set for my hydraulic steering how is the best way for me to eliminate future chine walk with my setup. Is it mostly related to prop pitch plus proper load/weight in my boat? Thanks to all for everyones help!!! This one of many reasons why I bought a Bass Cat. Peace Out! misr12Last edited by misr12 on February 18th, 2008, 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
misr12, The plates being level, is speaking of the area where the two plates meet. That area will be best to start on this model at level. Then you can tweak it as you learn how to drive and the characteristics of your rig. BCB
BCB, thanks a bunch. I am gathering info to educate myself regarding hydraulic steering learning curve.
Loosen the bolts on the side first. Two on each side. Then turn the center nut which will move the plate up or down depending on way you turn the nut. Make note of where you are now on the plate. If you are not flush make a small mark with a sharpie where you currently are. This will allow you to return to where you were if things get worse. The boat will evently free the steering wheel up when you hit the right spot. You are going to have some walking regardless of what prop you have. That is a performance hull and you will have to “drive” the boat. Do a search for “chine walk” here on the board. There are some good examples of how to make small corrections with the wheel while driving. It is a feel thing. The most important thing is seat time. It will come to you and be second nature. I have never been in a Sabre but had a 2006 Puma. I am thinking of downsizing with my next Cat and interested in how your boat will perform. I dont work for Brech Marine. However, I have been a longtime customer and help them at the boat shows. They have become family friends and you will not be sorry you bought your boat from them. Now take some tools and go to lake. Get that bad boy dialed in.ChetLast edited by Bama96 on February 18th, 2008, 7:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.
It seems strange to read about JP setting the way Cat does em, as I am so used to measuring off pad height. Using the top of the plate sections makes it easier for new guys without a doubt. Misr, on a Slidemaster I like to take the lower unit and give it a couple of good shakes after I move the JP to make sure one side did not stick when moving up or down. I will measure both sides as well. Then I tighten the four side bolts back down after I put the barackets back flush with the plate. Then again I have been called “anal” about these things . Hyd Steering is indeed stiff, you just dont get that old fashioned torque from the prop like in the old cable steer days. I had forgotten just how bad that wore on your arms until I was running an old dual cable boat for a friend this summer. I swear my arms were tired in a half hour of testing. When I get my new FTD broke in and ready for set up like you are doing Ill keep a notebook with speeds at the different JP heights (itll be fine to measure from the top the way Cat does), water pressure, how it felt in the corners IE blow out or not, until I find the right prop and JP height for my boat and load. It normally takes me a few hours a several props to get one dialed in. If yours is chine walking take it slow and learn how to drive it before messing with all this above. You can always come to TN with a few props and take me fishing until I get mine. Glad to help out! P.S. Just from memory clockwise lowers, but dont hold me to that.
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