jackplate question

Why would you need a Hole Shot Plate on a Sabre? They are usually very quick on the bottom. BCB

I did some testing a few years ago with a jack plate that had a hole shot type plate you could adjust the angle. The primary testing done was for decreasing hole shot time and shallow water hole shots. In order to get any benefits from any type of hole shot plate, the plate has to be at an angle greater than 45 degrees. Even then, hole shot time only picked up by 1/2 second if I remember. Hole shot plates are a waste of money and the only advantage they have is they do a decent job of preventing splash. At 60 degrees, the plate would help the boat plane at a slower speed. Bear in mind too, the hole shot plate that I was testing had a much larger angled surface than the one youre looking at.

Is this the same thing as a hydrofoil? LOVE MY CAT Ed”Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional illogical minority, and rapidly promoted by an unscrupulous main- stream media which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.”

There are two separate issues. (1) setback is used to adjust the center of gravity on the boat. The farther back you move the motor, the easier it becomes for the motor to hold the bow up without having excessive trim, which wastes power. It does get the prop into somewhat cleaner water after some of the turbulence and aeration has dissipated behind the pad, but that is minor to moving the CG rearward. Once you pass the sweet spot, you actually start to have to use negative trim to keep the bow from rising too high, which again increases drag. So there is a right set-back. (2) stress. The farther back you hang the motor, the longer the “lever” you are applying to the transom. Remember, the motor is holding the bow out of the water. The farther back you hang the motor, the longer that lever is that is applying force. And the force is applied _directly_ to the transom. You can move the motor far enough back that it will simply rip the transom off, if you go far enough. I believe BCB uses 6″ for normal plates, and 8″ on the hydraulic plates. Id suspect they know their boats well and know where the optimal balance point (CG) should be located and which plate will produce that CG, without over-stressing the transom. I will add that as you move the motor back, you begin to get into an ugly porpoising motion at slower speeds (40mph and below) unless you trim way down, and as you slow down, the trim is less effective. When you see a boat that is porpoising violently as it comes down off plane, you can think “theres a boat with the C/G too far back”. There are good reasons for moving it back that for if racing is your thing, but for running a normal boat, no.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200

BCB will not warranty their hulls with anything over an 8″ setback plate, and based on running one for years, that is all you need. Like Clint said, because of the water that I fish(very shallow at times), and the ease of adjustment on the run, for varying hull loads, I always get a hydraulic Detwiler plate. I just prefer the convenience and ability to idle in really shallow water. That said, BCB prefers a manual plate, because there is less to go wrong, and nothing electrical/mechanical to fail. Over the past 12 years, I have had one plate fail, and it cost me 2 weeks to R&R. But, Ill still take the chance. Just understand that with a hydraulic plate, you are adding an aftermarket option that is not part of the BCB quality control process. Make your decision with all the facts in front of you. Best regards, Mike Whitten

My partners Detwiler came with a standard (non digital) gauge, like the standard trim gauge. When you get your boat, I would suggest lowering the plate to about 4 inches below pad and leave it there during the break in period. Once you have some hours on the motor, raising it a 1/4 to 1/2 inch should put you in the “zone” for optimum top end. Simply trim the motor level (on the trailer) and measure the prop shaft height relative to the pad. You can start with the motor high on the Detwiler and lower it (motor trimmed level) until you get to about 4 inches below pad. With standard wheels on the trailer, 4 inches below pad should be really close to having the skeg of the motor touch the ground (at level trim), so be careful. Like Mike said, there is always a risk of mechanical failure of a hydraulic plate… but if you fish shallow stuff, youll be amazed at how shallow you can idle thru…as well as missing alot of those stumps that can ding an expensive prop…just a great add-on I think. I believe the Detwiler comes with a 6″ setback just so ya know.