Home › Forums › Bass Cat Boats › Lithium Starting Battery / Alternator Question
Afternoon BCB peeps. I haven’t been around in a while and had a question I am sure some of you smart people might have some insight on. Boat is a 2017 Eyra with a 250 PRO XS. I converted all my batteries to IONIC lithium’s in 2020, including my starting battery. I am running a 125ah 12v for the main. It’s been fine for a little over two years. About two months ago, I added Lowrance live sight sonar, which is using a little more juice. Wasnt a big deal, and I’ve been keeping tabs on the charge level with the IONIC app, which is super handy btw.
Went fishing two weeks ago and checked the app mid-day to see how my battery was doing. Notice a massive voltage drain (motor was on), and its normally a positive feed. Got back to my camp to check the alternator, and it was DOA. Basically smoked…. literally.
I reached out to Balmor Marine who sent me to a local alternator shop. They sent me a newly built 5si as a replacement with a higher output on the winding. Tested out at about 90amps.
Questions: After speaking with Balmor and doing some research, it appears lithium connected to the alternator is problematic for the alternator for two main reasons. The lithiums have very low resistance and overheat the alternator, and their BMS will shut off when the battery is charged causing the alternator voltage to overspike. Maybe I am overthinking this, but how is everyone else with a lithium starting battery handling this? Any thoughts/suggestions?
Considering a DC/DC charger (renology), but they are not waterproof and take up a ton of real estate. Considered adding a second starting battery and wiring it to the lithium as a buffer, but again don’t have room or an extra bank for 120v Charging.
What I would do in your situation is call Andy at Drewcraft. He is the largest seller of the Ionic batteries and is the most knowledgeable person I know of over on BBC with regards to their proper set up, capacities, etc. I’m sure he could advise you accordingly and point you in the right direction. 910 722 0001 is his number. He is generally quick to respond also.
(edit) I was just over on BBC and saw that you posted there. I am sure Andy and some of the other experts will be along to advise.
I called Andy and ended up receiving a text from him. We chatted back/forth a few times. He did not seem to think there was any issue with the battery setup and that alternators wouldn’t get that hot on shorter runs of 30-40 minutes to burn up. He did forward a link to a sterling APD 12 that could prevent a voltage back spike if the BMS shutdown.
When I spoke with Balmor and Quality Power (where I ordered the alternators) both seemed to think that at lower RPMs is where you would run into heat issues. The voltage back spike was a different issue.
I’ve been able to decipher that none of this is clear. Battery technology has changed faster than the industry can update old systems like alternators. Lots of folks with lots of gizmos. The one clear thing is Mercury wants +$700 bucks for a stock alternator, and mistakes with electrical systems can be expensive.
Over a decade ago we piddled with lithium as a main battery. We found the battery companies, at that time, to be under capable of understanding marine and bass anglers needs. There’s a lot to lithium, BMS, parasitic drains, alternators, and long term amperage needs on todays bass boats. We continue to see posts, comments, and questions like this when these topics arise. Why would a lithium ‘seller’ give information contrary to a product they are trying to promote and install in a given market? Would you expect Continental Battery Company to say that lithium is “the deal” if they had no lithium.
We are not willing to pioneer on technology that will eventually develop. Thus BCB continues to feel high level, and heavy, AGM batteries serve the bass boat needs today better than most any existing, at this time.
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