Locating fuse on front graph power cable

This topic has 9 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 3 months ago by apdriver.

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March 4, 2013 at 3:04 pm #424262

Andrew Winkle
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Front/trolling motor graph stopped working out of the blue the other day and I feel theres a good chance its a blown in-line fuse on the power cable (factory installed). Looking for any advice on where this might be located though on a 2005 P4, for anyone whos been down this road before. Should I be looking for this as it comes past the console area or is it more common to be in the battery compartment area or just somewhere in the gunnel and have to pull line out to find it???Thanks in advance for any info provided!AW

March 4, 2013 at 3:27 pm #424263

apdriver
Participant

Im certainly no expert on this, but it is standard practice to put inline fuses as close to the battery as you can. That way, if you get a short, your circuit will be protected from where your fuse is located all the way down range. All that being said, I believe I read a post awhile back where BCB said they quit using inline fuses because they tend to cause a lot of problems. Bad connections, corrosion mostly so the units stop working. Im sure they will chime in soon. Good luck.

March 4, 2013 at 3:40 pm #424264

tab2005
Participant

Start where the power cable hooks into the graph and trace back to the battery. It will probably be within the first 2-3 of the graph.

March 4, 2013 at 4:15 pm #424265

Andrew Winkle
Participant

tab2005 wrote:Start where the power cable hooks into the graph and trace back to the battery. It will probably be within the first 2-3 of the graph.Only problem with that is the first 8-10 is going to be up inside the hull/top cap until it gets to the console, then the same until it gets inside battery compartment. I know theres some inline “push button” type fuses in the battery compartment area, but none of them are tripped and all other electronics are working fine.The only two options left is either the inline fuse that is shown in the owners manual or the head unit is shot. Its the original X125 that came on the boat, so its obviously a possibility the unit just gave out as well….

March 4, 2013 at 4:34 pm #424266

apdriver
Participant

Yeah, I just installed a Hds5 at my bow and HDS 8 at the console. I know what a pain it can be to run the wires and transducer cables. Also spent a lot of time crawling around helicopters in the service repairing wiring and running cables. Why dont you do this to troubleshoot it and then you will know if its a fuse/wiring problem or a bad control head on that unit. Why dont you unplug the control head from the mount and use a multimeter to see if you are getting 12vdc to the mount. If it is a Hummingbird, the power wire will be the connector with two wires by itself. Lowrance will be the same, just a screw on connector.Last edited by apdriver on March 4th, 2013, 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

March 4, 2013 at 4:42 pm #424267

tab2005
Participant

Like was mentioned above, there is probably enough slack to pull a few feet of the power cable out of where it comes out. The 1st thing I would do is unplug the power cable and test the pins in the end of the cable to start the troubleshooting with a multimeter. Power to the pins, likely head unit issue. No power, either fuse or bad connection at a switch or battery.

March 4, 2013 at 4:50 pm #424268

Andrew Winkle
Participant

Didnt realize you could test with multimeter….. Thanks for heads up on the apdriver and tab2005! Ill pick one up today and try that tonight, then decide whether I need to search for blown fuse or my checkbook…..

March 4, 2013 at 4:59 pm #424269

tab2005
Participant

Pins 7 & 8 should show 12v.

March 4, 2013 at 5:02 pm #424270

Andrew Winkle
Participant

Thanks tab2005!!!

March 4, 2013 at 5:03 pm #424271

apdriver
Participant

Good deal. The new Hds units w/sidescan are pretty sweet. A buddy of mine says it is like taking the water out of the lake. I dont know if they are that good. They are nice though. If you need more help let us know. One of the nicest, inexpensive electronic multimeters Ive seen, and I have one, is the Craftsman. Little red unit that costs 25 bucks or so. Self protecting in that if you hook it up backwards it just shows negative numbers instead of damaging the unit. Just thought I would add that since you have to buy one.
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