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Long time reader- first time poster. Im having some minor issues with my Margay and I hope you guys can help me out. Summary- New Margay with around 6 hours. 150 Mercury Optimax Pro XS with 24p fury. Motorguide 80 x5 on front. Boat is packed very light. I’m getting 60 with just myself and 1/4 tank of fuel. RPMs are at around 5600. If I trim up any higher it chime walks.If I run the boat with a full live well I can get it up to 62-63. And that’s aggressively driving through the chime walk. *i do not care for doing that.I just leveled my boat and cavitation plate- then took these measurements. Edge of center of pad is 16.25in from floor. Center of prop is 11.5inches from floor. The difference is 5.75in.Should I move up or down? How much?Thanks
I have a 2014 margay with the 150 Optimax Pro XS. It came with a 24p Fury 3. Prop to pad was about the same as yours. Boat would chine walk terribly around 60 mph and the back end would kick left about a foot from time to time. Raised motor to 4 inches below the pad and the boat handled much better. Never was happy with the load carrying ability of the Fury and could not get the nose up at low speeds. Switched to a 4 blade Signature SL4 with 4 one inch vent holes and am now very satisfied with the performance. I saw in your other post that you were concerned about co-angler rod storage. There is plenty of room beside the passenger seat for 4 or 5 rods. I ordered the reel pad and strap that comes standard on the Sabre and it works fine for my partner.
Thanks for the info! What kinds of speeds are you getting? How much weight do you have up front? I was concerned with weight and that is why I went with the standard motorguide and not the fortrex.Awesome. Thanks. I saw the reel pad, but what strap did you get?
The bungee strap. You can see a picture of the set up on the yellow and black Sabre shown in the boats section of the BCB website.I, too, have the standard MG trolling motor. My left front storage box is packed with tackle. Center rod box and drivers side box are fairly light. I am not a speed guy. Boat was faster with the Fury prop. With my partner,his gear, full live well and 3/4 tank of fuel I run 60-61mph with the 4 blade. Hole shot, midrange and bow lift at low speed are much better. I have never done just a high speed run to see what it will do. Not my thing as I am getting older.
There is no exact measurement anybody can give you. There are small differences in virtually every prop even within a product line. How you load the boat, and balance/distribute the load also matters – as well as your driving skills. No setup will ever eliminate chine walk. Until you learn to handle the chine and keep it from happening – youll never see the full potential of the hull.Its been said many times on this and most every forum – come up on the plate 1/4″ at a time until the hull loses speed, lift, water pressure, or gets too stiff with prop torque to properly steer. Then drop it 1/4″. A BCB hull, when properly set up, wont need a lot of trim to run. If youre throwing very much of a rooster tail – youre over trimmed or motor too high. The higher on the plate you are – the less trim youll need to max. Rooster tails and high bows may look cool, but show a poor setup and lack of driving skills. Find a buddy that knows how to set up and drive a BCB hull. Let them do the driving and coaching you until you learn to feel the steering inputs / trim and driving cadence necessary to keep the walking from happening. Proper setup makes handling simpler and more controllable. There isnt a performance hull that will allow you to maximize speed without actually “driving” the boat. Fast boats walk.
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