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last week i had a tournament and the night before i found out that my battery was so dead that it wouldnt charge. switched in a smaller battery for the tournament day since i didnt have a full size spare. ended up having to get towed in. tried switching batteries with a buddy and still wouldnt start. got my battery checked out and recharged, put it back in the boat and now the smart craft gauge is blinking at start up and making a continuous annoying alarm. checked all the wires then double checked to make sure everything was hooked up. is it possibly that i blew a fuse when i swapped batteries or tried to jump off from the trolling batteries. motor turns over but doesnt fire. motor is a 225 pro xs btw
its likely you blew a fuseable link and youll need to get that from a dealer. Likely will run you somewhere between 50 and 100 bucks. Did you short the connections while you were hooking up the batteries? Did you try and start with 24 or 36 volts? It may be the battery is bad and is needing to be replaced.
i took the battery to the store last monday and they read 6.5 volts and said theyd recharge it. called me the next day and said it was good to go. its possible i shorted it out but im not sure how to determine that. im assuming something has to be shorted since the smartcraft isnt even reading that there is a battery. i really hate electrical stuff
when a battery gets that low and sits for a period of time it is difficult to bring them back to life. likely one of the cells or more is bad. check the voltage and if it has less than 12 volts then it could be your battery. if the battery has greater than 12 volts then its likely a fuseable link or other problem. you can check voltage by turning on your master power switch and reading your smartcraft or by turning on your depth finder. there should be a voltage readout on one or the other. good luck.
the smartcraft reads 0
Smartcraft is designed to have min. 10 volts to start. If you supplied 24 or 36 volts to the system may have fried something. The smartcraft is a low voltage system 5 volts.
Sounds like you fried something if you used the TM batteries with them all hooked up. Next time you use the TM batteries, unhook the wires on the TM side and then do the jump to the motor.Looks like a trip to R&K is coming up.Good Luck & Godspeed, Mark
There is a fuse in the system and you also have a fuseable link that is burned.
Mark Mullies wrote:Sounds like you fried something if you used the TM batteries with them all hooked up. Next time you use the TM batteries, unhook the wires on the TM side and then do the jump to the motor.Looks like a trip to R&K is coming up.Good Luck & Godspeed, MarkNot to get into a big BBC thing here, but if you hook cables to the positive and negative of the SAME battery, it will only be 12 volts, no matter how many batteries are hooked up. To get 24 or 36, you need to hook to the same terminals that your trolling motor is hooked to, on separate batteries. You do not need to disconnect them to jump your big motor. It is possible, but it would be an expensive brain fart to try and start with 24 or 36 volts. Get a meter, and test the battery as it sits. Sounds like there is your problem. Swap the motor leads to a good, charged trolling motor battery or another one if available and rule that out. Dont spend $100 having a dealer tell you you need to buy a battery. If that isnt it, it could be dozens of things, and some more help could be needed. Good luck.Bill Spence St. Albans, VT [url=mailto:billspence@yahoo.com]billspence@yahoo.com[/url] http://www.twinstatebassin.com Bass Cat Boats http://www.basscat.com Vexilar Marine Electronics http://www.vexilar.com
Never too old to learn something, Thanks for the update.
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