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2016 250 proxs, torquemaster gen 2 fury 3 blade. Trying to remove prop for gear oil change. Removed nut and 3 washers. pulled on prop and it wont budge. Trick to removing?
Should just slide off.
Yeah, everybodys does just not mine. Everything fights me. What would you suggest short of taking it to a dealer?
Most likely just carbon buildup on the prop shaft splines. Trim motor up and spray some penetrating oil on the prop shaft and let soak for a while. Should loosen up the carbon and slide off.
Thanks, will give a try in morning. Tired of 107 heat index and fighting skeeters. This is a brand new lower unit and I need to do the 20 hour gear oil change. Thanks.
When a prop is installed, the prop shaft needs a thin coat of mercury 2-4-C to prevent any sort of corrosion that will stick the hub to the prop shaft. You can always take a block of wood and a hammer and give the prop a rap on the front edge. Note rap is NOT a full swing with a 4.5 pound heavy hammer. Just a good rap where the wood will prevent any damage to the prop, and that will likely pop it free if the boat is not a salt-water boat.
100% freshwater. 127 hours. The lower was installed by the Merc. mechanic that follows the BASS opens. Im sure he greased splines but, I was not there. Soaked in PB blaster, tried wood block on ears front edge, put washers back on, torqued nut to 55 ft lbs. Removed nut and washers, wood block taps. Still nothing pulled with all I got and NOTHING. Any suggestions?
Tap it forwards by tapping the hub and the try pulling it.
There are some other possibilities but you have to be careful, and if you dont feel comfortable, take it to a dealer.One that often works is to carefully use a couple of flat-blade screwdrivers, wrap a layer of electrical tape or two around the tips to protect the paint on the gear case, then insert between the gear case and prop. Loosen the prop nut a couple of turns. Then, while applying pressure with the two screw drivers (levering against the prop and gear case), use a block of wood and a hammer and whack the prop shaft. You leave the nut on so there is no chance of impacting the threads or bradding the end of the prop shaft so that you cant get the nut back on. You want to be cautious as there are bearings and gears that are always in contact and you dont want to bang the pinion/drive gear together. Once you have taken a gear case or two apart, you get a feel for how much pressure to apply and how hard to whack the thing without fear of damage. You can also try a puller that applies pressure to the prop shaft with “hooks” that will grab on to the front surface of the hub/prop (inside the exhaust opening. Beware of heat as you have a double rubber oil seal on the prop shaft at the back of the gear case. Dont want to get those seals hot, nor do you want to melt the rubber-like shock absorber in the hub.The only ones I have ever had trouble removing were those that were exposed to salt water which will produce corrosion if you are not careful to re-grease the shaft every few months at least. The puller approach is probably the least dangerous
Thanks Oldtimer, guess Im going to try a puller. Just put in the water, ran up to 52 MPH, stopped, reverse 8-10 times with some juice, ran back, loaded, came home and…….THAT SOB AINT COMIN OFF! I have to be the most jinxed ever. A simple prop removal I cant do. Dont know what ever made me think I could change the gear oil.
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