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MikeFarris.
I know that this subject has been up here many times before, in fact I had a previous post regarding the 2017 Cougar AE that I have with the 25P fury on it. The prop was reworked by Ronnie Gilbert, and now I have another question for everyone. My previous boat was 2014 Cougar FTD, no poles with a 250 Merc on it as well. Both of these boats are pretty much loaded out with the same amount of tackle, etc., the big difference is the 2017 has poles on it while the 14 did not have them on it. Also the 14 was a FTD and the 17 is a AE hull. The 14 had a 26P fury on it that was not worked on. Now I went out this evening, water temp about 83 degrees, and prior to doing any runs, I lifted the motor about 3/4 of an inch versus where it was previously. All I can say is wow, I figured that I would lose holeshot, in fact the opposite happened, boat is quicker out of the hole, very stable until right around 66-67 mph. At that speed I am about 5500 rpm, have 20 psi of water pressure and it begins to chinewalk on me. Now the 14 did not walk, and the fastest I had that one was about 77-78 in March of this year (I know water temp has bearing on mph) but heres the question, does the combination of poles, and water temp actually contribute to that much of a difference between one boat to the other. Or is it on me to continue to lift the motor, watch the water psi and see how much more is in it? I am not a light weight by any means and I do load the boat down. But if this is the case, where the poles will cost me some top end (I could see 5 mph) ok. But I do see where others are pushing 80 in either Cougars, or Pumas with 250s and poles. Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
I am experiencing the same thing with chine walk going from a yamaha to a merc. What I have discovered is, I was over trimming. It started to chine at about 68/69 if I was over trimmed. I’d bump it down until it was stable, then bump the trim up trying to adjust 1/8th of an inch or so at a time. I had to give the boat time to react to my adjustments before bumping it up more. I hit 74 without chine walking and still had more left before I had to back off. I need a few miles of straight away to reach max speed. I have an 06 puma, 8 inch jack plate, merc 250, and running a three blade 26 pitch fury, no holes plugged. I believe a 25 pitch 4 blade will be a better choice for stability and I’ll still be able to hit 75 or so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Over trimming is much harder to see with a Mercury gearcase and it is critical to have it trimmed in steps slowly. Yamaha gearcases can be trimmed abs handle overtrim with less slippage. They are just usually are slightly slower, though users can drive them faster with less experience. Over trimming is usually a big factor and trimming in slight taps is important to develop maximum potential.
PaPa Basscat and BCB I sorta figured that one t.just a bit. Ronnie had told me that with this prop it would need very little trim to get it on the pad once he was done with it. The last run I did I had it trimmed up, oh almost 1/4 of the way from full down. Boat was very very stable until the chine walk started, but I am wondering if I should bring the motor up another 1/4 to see it that increases speed, and or I lose holeshot and water pressure. As I previously stated I glanced at the water pressure level and it was at 20 psi with the motor at 5500 rpm. Of course I was starting to get out of it a bit to gain stability at that point. I think overall its just going to be more seat time in this boat to get it figured out.
Thanks BCB. I agree on more seat time. I need it too. My PTP height is 3.5 with jack plate all the way down. The ruler / travel on my jack plate is 6 inches and the numbered gage is in increments of 1 to 20. I can get on pad on a setting of 4. I run it at 2…which puts my PTP height about 3 inches I suppose? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey my FTD cougar is running a four blade fury. Please tell me how high to lift motor from bottom of pad to the um bottom plate on the lower unit? Any help appreciated!!! ThanksSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mike, dont know what year your FTD is or if you have a hydro plate or not. Both of the cougars that I have owned have had manual plates on them. Right now the 17 is at about flush on the top when you look at the plate (in the front where the inside slides up and down). The 14 FTD was also about the same area as well but it had a 26 P fury on it. I know that this sounds backwards since more people measure the difference between the pad and the center of the prop. I use this when I am adjusting the height (I have placed black lines where I started at using a sharpie) so I have a reference of where I have been. I probably will increase my height another 1/4 inch prior to my next time at the lake (Monday I hope) and see how the boat reacts to that. I probably should just spend a day wringing it out, but when I start seeing the bass blowing up on shad………..well the top water has to come out.
Lol. It’s an 08 with a 250 optimal mercury. I’m running a 4 blade fury. Comes out of the hole great even full of gas and live wells full. I’m getting 71 out of her. I believe I should be a bit faster. It handles great I don’t have to drive it even wide open. Still not sure how high to have the bottom plate on the motor…above the pad! Thanks buddy. I look forward to any help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also I’m running a 6” jack play with a 4” additional setback! It tremendously helped backwash! Any help on where the bottom of the motor um…flat plate needs to really be in inches? I’ve read 3 1/2” but I just haven’t had enough time yet to dial anything in? Do you have a starting point? Thanks so much and God Bless Ya!!! Mike Farris. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I mean above the actual pad…and that was 6” jack plate. Thanks!!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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