Repainting Mercury foot

This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 9 months ago by scoand.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

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September 10, 2015 at 11:21 pm #283303

apdriver
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Whats the best way to go about this? I have purchased the primer and the paint. I believe its a zinc chromate and some BMW color. First blush, I want to remove the prop and drop the lower unit, sand, mask and tape but wanted to hear what others have done and also if there is something special I need to do about dropping lower unit.

September 11, 2015 at 3:49 pm #283304

JEH in La
Participant

apdriver, I thought someone might help you out with your request by now. Ill say that I have never painted my lower unit but if I was going to, I dont think I would go to the trouble of removing it from the motor unless you want to replace the water pump or something. I would just do what you have to do to sand, clean and paint it in place. If Im giving bad advice, surely someone will comment on it one way or the other. Good luck, JimEveryone should believe in something. I believe Ill just go fishing!

September 11, 2015 at 4:50 pm #283305

apdriver
Participant

Thanks Jim. I was just going to separate it just enough by loosening the bolts so I could get a nice clean repaint between lower unit and midsection. I havent taken the lower unit off on either Mercury I owned but have on Yamaha and a couple Suzukis. I was just wondering if I had to worry much about the speedo tube or any linkage. I dont have a service manual for it but can probably find some info online. Thought one of the members might know have replaced an impeller or even gone through this process. Its a 2013 Mercury 250 Pro XS.

September 11, 2015 at 5:02 pm #283306

Redngoo
Participant

Merc are easy. If ur just separating enough to get a clean edge. Really the only linkage is the shifter spline drive. If you drop all the way off I drop it in gear . Makes it easier to align the drive shaft spline back up . Especially if your a one man operation. As far as painting Ive had no luck with spray can paint staying on. I think u will need some type of epoxy paint2013 PANTERA 2MERCURY 200 PRO XSMINNKOTA 80LB FORTREX25 fury

September 11, 2015 at 7:42 pm #283307

jignpig
Participant

Its a 2013 model? How bad is the paint scratched or damaged? Or is it the silver lower unit and youre just wanting to match it all up? The color is Phantom Black to match the Mercury if thats what color youre using96 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner

September 11, 2015 at 11:18 pm #283308

apdriver
Participant

jignpig wrote:Its a 2013 model? How bad is the paint scratched or damaged? Or is it the silver lower unit and youre just wanting to match it all up?The color is Phantom Black to match the Mercury if thats what color youre using Its the gray foot that I will be touching up. Already have the primer and paint. Its just the usual skeg wear plus a an area on the side that looks like a previous owner used some touch up paint that wasnt a match.

September 12, 2015 at 12:48 am #283309

JEH in La
Participant

apdriver, I did replace my water pump last year on a 200 optimax and it wasnt that difficult. There is a tubing that is going up into the motor that is used for the speedometer back at the dashboard. It was a slight challenge to hook back up while trying to mesh the shaft back in while holding all of that so I think it is a 2-man job myself. I wouldnt try it by yourself. Like redngoo said, just loosen it all up and let it down about 1/16″ so you get that fine painted line that you are looking for. Everyone should believe in something. I believe Ill just go fishing!

September 12, 2015 at 2:40 pm #283310

scoand
Participant

Just loosen the nuts and back them off to the end of the studs. Dont remove them. That will give you about 1/2″ gap. By doing this you dont have to worry about the linkage seperating. Then you just have to tighten the nuts back up when finished.

September 12, 2015 at 6:24 pm #283311

scoand
Participant

Dont forget to remove the bolt in the back for the zinc plate
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