Topic: Replacing Detwiler Jackplate

Participant

My 05 model Detwiler Hydraulic All-in-One jackplate started leaking and eventually leaked itself all the way down over the winter. The pump still runs fine but I dont know what all other problems there may be. I received the fix-it kit and installed it a year or two ago as I had popped two of the long metal bolts. But it worked fine for quite a while after the fix was applied. I emailed Detwiler but all I got from a “Dale Hagen [[email protected]]” was: Your message To: [url=mailto:[email protected]][font=&AMP][email protected][/font][/url] Sent: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 23:00:51 -0600 was deleted without being read on Mon, 5 Jan 2009 10:02:11 -0600No other reply has been received even on a follow up email. Not exactly what I would call good customer service. So if customer service is high on your product choice criteria then make your own judgement from this. Anyway, on to what Im posting about. So Im ripping (not literally) the Detwiler off my boat and putting on the manual SlideMaster as was originally on the boat. One of the 6 fine-threaded transom bolts galled and seized up after I had loosened it about a 1/4″ but I eventually brute force twisted the bolt in two. So now I need a replacement(s). Questions: 1) Is it OK to reuse these remaining transom bolts? If not, then are there specific requirements for the replacement bolts, grade, etc? Is it OK to use course threaded SS bolts on the transom? My worthless local NW Arkansas BassCat dealer was no help and sold me a shorter engine mounting bolt kit saying that he had “used these on a BassCat just last week” and this is what I needed and was all he had despite being asked specifically if he had the 6 transom bolts. However Lowes has a 1/2″ stainless steel bolt in both 4″ and 5″ length, but of a standard and not fine thread and I dont know the grade. I also dont know if the BassCat bolt is of a special grade, strength or quality vs these Lowes bolts. 2) Since I wont have much time to trial and error the jackplate height, what is the recommended starting point and how to measure and adjust this in my garage? I have an 04 PIV with an 04 200 EFI Merc 3.0L (which I understand the 04s were choked back some from what the later 3.0L EFIs were set for). Thanks and any advice will be appreciated. DekeLast edited by djk3030 on April 18th, 2009, 9:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.[font=&QUOT]Deke[/font]

Bass Cat Boats

Keymaster

Deke, It is OK to use your transom bolts, though these are stainless and they gauld easily, so use lubricant like grease, and G O S L O W on threading them. It is common to gauld the bolts on stainless. We do it all the time, and twisting them is the only way. DO NOT use a power tool on them, unless you are talented and experienced on stainless. We have replacement bolts and they are not that expensive. Though you may be able to get them locally at a hardware complex. We do prefer a standard threaded bolt, and some ACE Hardware stores have those. They may have used those on a a Sabre or Pantera Classic, which have an appx. 1/2″ – 5/8″ narrower transom than that of your P4. Start those plates level or just below on the Slidemaster, and we have more. Your Detwiler was manufactured by another company and the owner was closing it prior to purchase. So they really are not the original builder of Detwilers with the four bolt stem kit. Plus we would hope you give them a jingle, as not all are CS companies using the internet and e-mail. Unfortunately many owner of companies are older and are not up to the times on electronic messaging and such. We run into it all the time. Though you can probably remod that plate yourself and run a little lareger stem bolt in the four hydraulic ram stem bolts. In NW AR there are plenty of good machine shops who could turn you a set of thicker stem bolts with threaded ends. The O Ring kit is all you would need then, and replace the O Rings and the old stem bolts (Them long metal bolts) with thicker ones, custom made that do not stretch. They should also be built with a stop shoulder on the stem itself and the thicker shaft. Which would require you to reset the top cap assembly with the stem bolts in place. That is the issue on the leak down, the bolts stretched and you did not retension them, (which you should not have to) and the the O Ring floated out of the cylinder end cap when the bolts allowed end cap travel. Anyways, we hope this helps you on the rebuild or assembly. You are well qualified to do the job, if you so decide to tackle it.