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I want to replace the dual steering on my 95 PII with CMC manual jackplate and 4 in. setback. The engine is a 96 Yamaha Pro V 150. The Question: Does the engine have to be taken off to replace the steering cables? Thanks, LOZman
You can lube the cables from my understanding but it has been many years since I have owned cable steering and I dont know how you go about doing it. In a boat that age I would venture to say you need to consider replacing them. That is just my 2 cents someone with better knowledge than me will probably come on with better information. I know you can get cable replacements from [email protected] Judd Lasiter
Check your engine heights, as if the engine is too high there will be steering torque on the top end. Lowering the engine would be our first suggestion. If this does not help, then you can try to lube the cables, though a replacement may be in order if it has torque with the engine trimmed down on the trailer.Last edited by Bass Cat Boats on February 15th, 2008, 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
You can cut the existing cables for easy removal and you should be able to navigate or direct the newer one in by rotating them in the boot. You can slip the left bolts back and sort of angle the engine also to gain better access. In the field, Odds are 95 to 5 you can do it without removal. For us they are 100 to 0 in house at the shop.
Thank you Sirs!
U betcha! We also suggest replacing the helm and tilt at the same time. BCB
Damaged motor mount maybe ?? — When the ” JERK ” occurs , is there any odd feeling in the steering , like slack being taken up ?? — Not likely to damage dual cable steering racks , but still a possibility . — Turn the wheel back and forth SLOWLY while someone holds pressure against it to see if you find a loose spot would be my suggestion . — Whatever you do , get it FIXED before it hurts you . — Hoss
Check all mounting hardware, mounts, and pad of your boat. Sounds like you may have sanded the pad a bit which would give you a bit more friction and lift, which would create chine walk, but i wouldnt run it hard until i found the issue. The “jerk”should be generated by engine movement, or steering rack wear,,,,,,, check it all. Last edited by dbasketman on October 24th, 2013, 4:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Check the slider bushing where the steering mounts to the engine. Its not a very tough part. Mine split in two. Grab the engine and see if it moves inside the Slider. Not the actuator, but where it connects to the engine. Also there are 2 bolts attaching the slider I found loose.
When it “jerks,” it does yank the steering wheel forecefully also. It has about 15 degrees of play in the steering wheel, but I believe its always been that way. There is some slop in the motor mounts, but I dont think its any worse than its ever been. Ive been told to replace the helm/tilt steering components to eliminate the slop, but I think its the same as its always been. Im hesitant to spend $500-700 on something thats been there all along, and Im afraid the problem will still be there after the fix. Thanks for the help so far.Kent Charles 2002 Pantera Classic & 200 Yamaha VMax
Can you feel it jerk in the steering? Or is it the rear of the boat kicking to the side. Like above, make sure everything is tight. Turn your wheel stop to stop out of the water and see if it jerks anywhere. May have an air bubble in the steering if its hydraulic. If not, you do have a different prop and skeg repair. This prop may not have enough bite causing you to overtrim vs the other prop causing chine walk and less bite at the height the other one was running may cause a “crab” effect, especially if its a Trophy. If this is the case drop the engine 1/8th and see how she runs. Again, make sure nothing broke or came loose first.
You posted while I was typing. Who suggested you change the helm? If it was a shop or any professional I think I would listen. Check with them to see what is normal play. Steering is nothing to take lightly I would get a professional opinion, especially since you had the sand bar incident. Good luck and be careful with this.
Yes, it was a local mechanic. The reason I hesitate to do this is because mine has always had the same amount of play in the steering, and he took me to another customers boat just to see the comparison on another boat. The other boat had more play in the steering than mine, but he still suggested that mine needed to be replaced. I just felt like he was grabbing at straws. I didnt feel like handing him a blank check to go repairing my boat when I wasnt confident that he knew what needed to be done.Kent Charles 2002 Pantera Classic & 200 Yamaha VMax
DPT2005 wrote:When it “jerks,” it does yank the steering wheel forecefully also. It has about 15 degrees of play in the steering wheel, but I believe its always been that way. There is some slop in the motor mounts, but I dont think its any worse than its ever been. Ive been told to replace the helm/tilt steering components to eliminate the slop, but I think its the same as its always been. Im hesitant to spend $500-700 on something thats been there all along, and Im afraid the problem will still be there after the fix. Thanks for the help so far.I run a 99 Classic with a pro-v 200 , and if youre keeping this boat / motor for a while , I highly recommend spending the money for the hydraulic steering and solid motor mounts from Hydro-Tec . — Amazing difference in steering performance !! — ZERO play in steering . — Hoss
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