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Often if you drop a tach you will loose voltage also and that is either stator or rectifier. The 101 units are usually very dependable and we would think that the bilge would switch. Try disconnecting the rear plug and reconnecting the unit resetting the processor. If not, then we would add a manual switch and not be concerned. They no longer work on BP dashes at Southwest that we know of. BCB
BCBThanks for the information. I turned out to be a bad voltage regulator. Im ordering two new ones and will work arount the bilge pump issue. Thanks for all your input on the board. Its your willingness to go the extra mile and the information that you provide that has kept me in a Basscat since 1993. Keep up the good work.Thanks,Mike Coffee
Good to see you got it covered. I didnt get mine figured out until I had fried the wiring harness and lost the voltage regulators while fishing. Good luck.96 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner
Thought about putting the bilge pumps on the Acc circuit on the BP-101 but was wondering does it get cut off like the Areators and Recirculators do if the battery voltage starts to drop? It would not be good to have the bilge pump be the first to go.Thanks,Mike
Do they work on auto? If so then we would not worry about it. If they dont then the voltage shut down is present at a higher voltage on the Acc. switch.
I purchased a 1994 Pantera 2 this past weekend and it has a BP-101 SuperDash in it. I have an invoice for the new dash dated 12/05/2005 from Southwest Electronics, Inc. so I can only assume it was converted from a BP-100 to the BP-101 around 12/2005. When the master power is turned on the Bilge is always on Auto and will not change. There seems to be no way to get the Bilge pumps to come on using the dash. I can wire a switch in to handle this but would rather used the dash. The tach seems to be inoperative as well. Im going to call a friend of mine tomorrow that is a Mercury Service dealer and findout how to test the tach lead on the motor but it doesnt look too good for the dash. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have checked the grounds and disconnected and reconnected all the connectors so I am not sure what else to do. Does anyone have a dash that they would like to get rid of? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.Thanks,Mike Coffee936.554.6515
Mainecat, Just exactly what is not working on your dash? BCBLast edited by Bass Cat Boats on August 24th, 2011, 10:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I upgraded the dash on my old 95 Pantera II and you had to connect each wire but it was easy since the new upgrade dash wire harness was color coded the same as the old dash wires. Doesnt take long at all.
Yes highway, though we want to diagnose the dash to perhaps repair the issue. We have had upgrades done on boats with BP dashes which had an aerator pump or voltage regulator out, only to still have the issue after the replacement dash was installed.
My dash only the little lights in each button light up, nothing works, live well, re-cir. horn, bildge pump ect. Last year some of the numbers would not read inside the dash panel but everything worked as it should. I cleaned all the wires at the battery, pulled the dash out and everything looked in the wiring harness
The most common issues were in the harness assembly between the main trunk line and the dash. If you cleaned all the leads and verified that there is power on both leads to the dash your assembly should power up. There is a credit on the BP dash for return on the dash upgrade to the newer style A10 model and gauges.
So if there is a credit for return, are there working super dashes available if we prefer or it is for environmental disposal purposes to turn them in?96 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner
Pull the harness apart sprat Corrosion X in there and let her dry then plug her back up fixed mine that way.
Ii I may tag on to this post. My 1996 Cat (Merc 200 EFI) completely shuts off while on plane. It hasnt quit at idle, even fast idle. In looking around the motor, the yellow connections from one of the voltage regulator has blackened some. In addition, I do think I have noticed higher voltage readings on my dash. This gives me two questions… First would a bad regulator sending higher voltages cause the ECM to shut the engine off? Second, I read on another site that one could disconnect a bad regulator and run the engine. The result would be an output of 20 amps instead of 40 amps. Is this true? The only reason I ask before I replace both regulators is that if I can run on one regulator, Id know the regulator is the cause for the engine shut down. Any imput is appreciated
Both regulators are required to properly run this engine and you can drop one resulting in port readings, usually 16.4 volts. Also the bullet connectors in the cannon plug on the engine can become closed. A pocket knife will open those round ended spades and get you a better connection. This is very common as is the regulator on a mid 90s engine.
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