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what, no takers??? oh well I guess I will have to do it by myself!!!
ok battery trays and pumps glue only or glue and screw?? thanks pete
glue (silicone) and screw
By hand after silicone is applied. We use urethane under the battery trays.
still need a volly tp do wires!! anybody? anybody? bueller?
anybody wanna come to ohio and rewire the p2 i am wirking on?? bilge area is prepared for reassembly, all new pumps and hoses, new battery trays, nice cleaned fuel tanks. all the wites leaving terminal block are toast!!! good thing i have wiring diagram!! just a question about securing pumps and trays .. glue and screw or just glue? pete
I put one on my Sabre a couple of months back. I can tell you from experience, if you dont power that ignition sense, your sidescan wont work. The lss2, I presume its a two, will not come one if it is not powered. That being said, you have to decide if you want it powered only when you are operating big motor ( ignition switch on ) or if you want it powered all the time ( master switch on ). I chose to power mine with master switch on. Now let me say, it will draw down your battery during a long day of fishing if it is powered all the time. You have some other draw on that starting battery also. Live well pumps, radio maybe, front sonar, to name a few depending on how everything is wired. I had to upgrade my starting battery to a 31 series after I couldnt start my Merc. Be sure to carry a few tools til you get it figured out, so you can switch batteries around if you get stranded. So, after you decide if you want it running all the time or not, use your multimeter or test light to find 12vdc that is powered accordingly. I left my hummingbird 717 in the dash as a backup. Since I didnt plan on running them at the same time, I just spliced right into where BCB wired the 717 in to 12 VDC. Hope this helps and good luck.
Ignition is the Purple wireBoat wiring is Red for hot (positive)
Thank You for all the replys. Last question – If I plan on setting it up to run off the master switch then I should run the ignition sense wire to a 12v source along with the 12v wire from unit. Is this correct?TksBig Al
Ignition sense we assume is the hot from the ignition, though should be labeled as such in the directions.
Yes, you should run the ignition sense to a 12vdc source that is powered from the master switch. This way, when you turn the master off your lss unit powers down. You can use the same circuit you use to provide power to the HDS 8. Thats what I did.
On the black and red wires, I would go direct to the battery, you will have many less issues with the unit turning itself off and restarting if its an 8 or larger.
If you have the cig lighter under the dash, use the power and ground from it. Off the back of the round pad (pump in, pump out, security, and accessory) youll have an orange wire with a butt connector use this to hook up your LSS yellow. This will have power to the HDS all the time and power to the LSS on when the accessory switch is on. If I am understanding correctly you are looking for an ignition wire. I dont think you want to use that or you will loose power with the key off.
When wired my HDS-8 up last month I found a spare Red and Black wire with butt connectors under the dash near the accessory light and socket. They were spares off the master switch. Worked like a charm. Had to dig around a bit to find them. Might look for a spare pair off the master.
We need to have yo contact the factory and they can assist you on removing the alarm code. We will move this to the Owners Board in 24 hours. This is the Quest site for tournament incentives.
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