[Jeff Porter]

Will do!  Thanks

[Jeff Porter]

I purchased a JBL marine radio with Bluetooth for my 02 classic

[Jeff Porter]

Yeah, it’s proven to be fairly involved as I ordered the 3rd seat/step versus the center compartment and also ordered speakers in the seats.  From the info that I have gathered:

1. Layout all 3 seats to ensure correct fit and that they cover the under-seat storage opening.  My center seat was just too big to fit all 3 seats and cover the openings so I ordered a narrower center seat.
2. To maximize the size of the center seat that you can install, the buckets need to be installed as far to each side as possible without uncovering the under-seat storage openings
3. For installing the buckets, drill pilot holes in the aluminum frame before inserting the screws in the next steps.  Put 2 longer sheet metal screws in the openings left on the 2 metal brackets to secure the front of each bucket seat to the boat. Ensure that you have the seat far enough back so your screws don’t exit the fiberglass.
4. To secure the back of the 2 buckets, pull the bottom of the seat up to expose the aluminum back brace.  Predrill through the aluminum back brace only and secure it with the long sheet metal type screws in each side of the brace to the back wall of the boat if your tanks are in the back corners of the bilge area.
5. For the center seat, I can see that you should measure 3 times and cut once because this one looks more complicated.  If the middle seat has a tight fit between the 2 buckets, you may need to flex the center seat bracket in or I’ve heard you may need to notch the bracket to ensure the correct fit in between the 2 buckets.  The seat is mounted by several, I think 8 anchors and screw combos.  You may try leaving the seat hinge from the old center seat to ensure that the new one opens and closes exactly as it should.
6. The speaker wire can be run through the holes where the under seat lights are mounted or just run behind the seats in a very small diameter plastic pipe to the drain hole on the drivers side and up to the console.

So far, this is what I know.

Thx Jeff

[Jeff Porter]

Agree! Great explanation of why you still run a Cat.  Looking forward to part 2.

[Jeff Porter]

My 2002 classic has aerate and recirculate options on the panel. I did have a BP2000 dash and changed to a10 but both have aerate and recirc options listed.  I also have the proair button but have never pushed it as it looks like a fuse/reset button vs a button to turn it on and off.

I think mine says “auto” and “empty” on the livewell valve so assume “auto” is always going to close it.

[Jeff Porter]

I did speak with basscat and the biggest hole they have experimented with is something like 4 or 4.25 inches as that is the size access cover they recommend and carry.  But…also  said nothing preventing me from cutting  a 5 inch hole and getting a different access hatch cover.

[Jeff Porter]

If you were wondering, here is a pic of of 5.5 inch access hole drilled with hole saw (drill in reverse  with water bottle spraying as it cut).  The only wires were graph wires that aren’t really in the way and a partial tube connected to the front drain hole.  Purchased a 5 inch water proof access hatch online which required a 5.5 inch hole. 

[Jeff Porter]

I ordered bucket seats from basscat to replace my bench seats and they feel and look amazing!

[Jeff Porter]

I have an 2002 classic and went to the basscat store online and purchased an adjustable power pedestal 14 -17 inches.  It has threads at the bottom but I just drop it in and pull the pedestal back out when done.  I have never screwed them in but maybe they need to be in really rough water.  I am not sure if mine will even screw in at all because I haven’t tried.

[Jeff Porter]

Will do.  Thanks

[Jeff Porter]

Looks like a only have one bilge because this is what I see.

1. 2 pumps connected directly to livewell (recirc?)

2. 2 pumps connected each to a gray tube that looks like it is going to and from the livewell and one connected to bilge float also

3. 1 pump connected to gray tube with on/off valve

4. the bilge float wire has a separate brown and black wire that is just loose which I assume would have been 2nd budge pump?

if it matter for the switches, I do now have the A10 dash panel

 

I attached pics

 

[Jeff Porter]

Yeah, I did tape connections and zip tie some out of the way.   I think JEH in La answered my last question.  Thanks to both of you!

[Jeff Porter]

Yeah, I’ve added mega live, 360, and dual helixes to the bow so I’ve got some experience with my 2002 classic wiring.  There is a sharp bend and a step down that causes issues especially when coming from the rod locker direction.  First of all, I added a 5.5 inch access point under the TM foot pedal.  I couldn’t get my fiberglass rod through when going from either direction.  I then went old school and used 2 coat hangers straightened out and twisted and taped together.  The reason I went with a coat hanger is you can pre-bend the coat hanger to get around the corner and step down from the recessed area. I went in under the TM pedal with a coat hanger bent about 60 degrees to the right and hooked it toward the rod locker after I passed the recessed area where the graphs are to be mounted.

[Jeff Porter]

[Jeff Porter]

Yes it is available.  I am in southaven Ms just a few miles from the memphis tn line.

[Author]

Posts