Thanks for the info. I plan on going through the trailer this week when I have some time and was planning on checking bearing and brake pads anyway… so ill just add this to the list. Thank YouBrian2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Went ahead and filled the cylinder with fluid and pumped the actuator several times and ended up with some brake fluid on the floor near passenger side tires. Pulled the wheels and began taking a look at what I had. The brake line on the passenger side was broken where it ties into the caliper. Neither caliper had any fluid in them. I didnt have anyone with me or a bleed kit so I couldnt get any fluid into the caliper. Passenger side caliper did not look great. Had some corrosion in the calipers. Piston was all the way compressed so I couldnt see how well it moved (is there a way to extend it without fluid?)Driver side looked much better – still no fluid, but looked pretty good. Was able to compress the piston some but didnt want to go too far since I didnt have any fluid to get it back out.Dust boots looked good.Gonna get a bleed kit and see if I can get some fluid in the calipers and then try to see if I need to replace passenger side – hopefully driver side is ok.Im assuming I need to wait to have working calipers before I can ensure actuator is working as it should? 2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Phew – Ill try that next, never heard of it that way but it sounds like it may save some time.I tried bleeding with a bleed kit I just made and it never got any fluid to the rear most bleed point after probably close to 75 pumps on the actuator. I could not get the screwdriver method to work (piston was not releasing maybe – this may be the issue), so I was just actuating the tongue. Wondering if the actuator was bad or plugged – I removed the fitting just behind the tongue where the hydraulic hoses go to steel lines. I pumped the actuator again several times and was only getting dribbles of fluid at this point. I was pluggin the port to keep air from going back in, but it didnt seem to ever make a difference. Some air was coming out, but it just didnt seem like enough volume was moving – but im not sure how much these actuators are supposed to be moving.I could still easily bottom out the actuator on both ends… Im thinking at least the master cylinder is bad Last edited by bdmonist on August 6th, 2017, 11:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Just found an exploded view of the A60 – Im pretty sure all Im doing is moving the shock absorber in the actuator until it bottoms out and then the master cylinder piston is engaging at the bottom.2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Yea I like the Power Poles – Will probably wait until next year at least on those – pricey! – I am thinking Im going to do some in compartment led lighting. I think those really add some good looks in addition to being functional.2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Thanks I will check there assuming I can figure out which one goes to lights.Whats confusing me is the voltage on both terminal sides at the light. One should be 0. 2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Not sure if I have an alarm on the lights or not. But I dont have 12v on one side of the light. I have 6 on each side.. So a 0 drop across the light. Which doesnt seem right. I need to find the switch their going through and check the voltage there too. 2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Still have some trouble here guys if anyone can help.I have a 0 Volt GroundI have 6 volts on both sides of the light (NO VOLTAGE DROP = NO bright light)I have 6 volts on connector to lid hingeLooking at JEH image below – The hinge leg grounds it out. When i bypass the hinge leg and grounded it straight to the ground – the lights work.I have 12.67 volts at block and the lights are not on a switch. I get the same voltage readings whether the key and acc switches are on or off.Is it possible that every single compartment is wired incorrectly or that every hinge block is bad? Last edited by bdmonist on August 20th, 2017, 6:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Thats what it looks like but I was having a hard time believing every switch was bad. Any other way to test the switch?2006 Bass Cat Puma250 Mercury
Cajunhunter67 wrote:I went the way of your number 1 choice.I didnt use the master rocker switch, but ran power from one of my TM batteries. That way I can leave them on and never have to worry about cranking issues. The TM battery could run the LED lights forever without having an impact on TM use.Using the TM Batteries is a good idea, I hadnt thought of that.
JEH in La wrote:bdmonist, dont forget to contact Alan in parts about the “current switches” that are available to replace your mercury switches at a considerable savings to you.Will do – thanks for the info. If I can use existing wiring & new reasonably priced switches that would save me a ton of time trying run all new wires.
Does anyone have pictures of the push button lid switches that are currently used? They are indicating they may not fit????
I dont mind drilling and retapping for the new switches and bypassing the welded in place mercury switch wiring. But here is the response I got from BassCat Service, indicating that it may be more than that” the front boxes and the compartments behind the seats are not fitted for those push button switches” ….. “You can make them work you may have to do some cutting and grinding to make them work.”Theres a big difference between drilling for new switches and cutting and grinding on lids… Just want to make sure they will work on my rig before I go that route…Anyone with a pic of the new style so I can see what Im dealing with?
This is what I have
Ive been emailing Richard, he has been helpful. He suggested the new module, but indicated that it may not work. Looking for additional trouble shooting methods at this point. I have an email in to him as well.
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