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While I purchased by 2002 Jag new, there was no “key” to be found to prevent slop and slapping of the surge system while I replace the solenoid….Is this something that is available at auto parts stores? Also, BCB has updated their on line trailer parts store and that is very much appreciated. With the 02 Jag, duel axle trailer, are these disk or drum bakes…….makes a huge difference in ordering parts as there are many more parts for the disk systems.Thanks
It could be a bad ground, or the solenoid is a common problem. You can replace just the top part of the solenoid and not have to re-bleed the system.
must be the solenoid then because the ground is good.
The “slapping and slop” is probably caused by the master cyl. or shock absorber instead of the solenoid. The solenoid is for releasing the brakes for backing. Not sure on drum or disc, but you can look inside the wheel and see if you have an exposed “disc” with brake caliper, or fully enclosed “drum” which covers the hub and brake pads. D.Last edited by dbasketman on April 27th, 2010, 9:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Remove the pins and the master cylinder slides out. Of course theres more work than that! You might be able to get under and behind to figure where your leak is.
Thanks Phil.Im sure Ill find something cracked,kinked or split. Well see. Ill post when I find it.
I just finished getting my trailer brakes repaired, replaced master cylinder. I had the local dealership do the work96 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner
BCB actually cuts a hole in the inserts for the bearing cover to have room now. There is not a deeper center cap, and they decided to not leave it off. They just barely touched on the bearing buddies new. They also do not suggest you ever use a grease gun on the bearings. They suggest every 3 to 5 years you just break them down. Think about it this way, the hubs are a sealed system. There is no where for the grease you pump in to go unless you blow a seal on the hub or it gasses from too much grease. Once that seal blows out there is a lip on the seal on both sides, one points in, and one points out. Once you blow those lips on the inside, then there is a crease where the lip blows out against the outer seal, and the seal is flipped on part of the spindle. This allows water to enter the hub when hot and it travels through that opening where the seal is flipped on both ends. The flip of the seal only is about 1 to 2″ long. Though it will get water in the bearings. DO NOT USE A GREASE GUN ON THE HUBS> !There is more information on your rig in the FAQ section. BCB http://basscatowners.yuku…ic-with-trailer-bearingshttp://basscatowners.yuku…s/67/BassCat-FAQ-Archivehttp://basscatowners.yuku…6/Bearings-repack?page=2
My center caps are all cracked too. BCB sent me replacements with the center cut out. Ive just not gotten around to pulling all 4 wheels to put them on…but I will eventually get to it.
Try this, reverse the light plug and turn on the parking lights, then see if it back up. That would indicate you dont have a reverse wire lead, which is our suspicion as you just rewired.
Is there a set color of this so called reverse wire lead? I tried to make sure all wires were included in the new trailer harness.
The Blue wire on the trailer should be reverse. There also could be a solenoid out.
Lucky there was not major damage. Probably a master cylinder locking up we feel.
I had the same thing happen at EverStart tournament at the Detroit River. On the underside of the trailer tongue is a brake release, behind were the ball goes and it got stuck on mine and when I release it, it released the brakes. Heres a picture of what I am talking about, hope this helps.
Look and see if the emergency cable has been pulled, if so there is a release under the tongue, Not a good picture but its wright behind were the ball goes.
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