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Ok, thats what I was thinking. How do you remove the marker light?
Yes, the running light. How does the housing come off the trailer?
The side marker/clearance lights have a stud on the back of the one piece light/ housing. Reach behind the light on the trailer and unbolt it, 3/8 if I remember right.
Hold on! Please define again which light you need to remove. The tail lamps press through and reinsert from the rear. Clearance lights are either stud mounted or face mounted (LED). BCB
I have the tail lamp out. The clearance light is mounted to a bar under the roller. There is three of them on a sliver bar. I just placed an order for new ones. I might of ordered the wrong clearance light?Last edited by Steel Sabre on March 8th, 2010, 4:25 am, edited 3 times in total.
Those are a light bar assembly, and they come with all three attached and you can not replace only one. The tail light just pops out and in. BCB
I just emailed parts to inform them I ordered the wrong clearance light. I think I will wait to order a new light bar.
More than likely you are punching it out with the motor toter. You probably need to cut the lower U short to keep from knocking the lens cap off or loose. Then water kills the center light. BCB
The Maxximas should work for you.If you can wait a day or two, we are working on putting together an LED Trailer Light upgrade package that might save you some $$s.Tick…
Cool! Thanks for the quick reply.
http://www.basscatstore.com/ledtrailerl … epack.aspx
Someone is Johnny on the spot! Here, here!!Dan
Thanks again order is going in within the week.
I upgraded my 09 lights and they r MUCH better
Here is the wiring identification for your trailer.[font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]White-Ground[/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]Brown-Tail/Running Lights[/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]Green-Right Turn/Brake – Remember green has an R in it[/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]Yellow-Left Turn/Brake – Remember yellow has an L in it[/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]Blue-Brake Controller Output[/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF][/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]If your ground wire is getting warm it is carrying too much current and will result in your fuse blowing again. You have a problem with one of your lights drawing too much current or you might have one of your other colored wires with a skinned spot. [/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]I would think a skinned spot in the wiring would immediately blow the fuse so you might have water in one of your lights or something causing a partial short that is carrying 18 or 19 amps which will result in warm wiring and eventually blow the 20 amp fuse. [/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]Feel the other colored wires (especially the brown one) to see if one of them is also getting warm which will point you in the right direction. Look closely at your lights to see if you have water in them and pay special attention to the running light strip in front of the motor that is prone to failure. You can unplug the rear trailer running lights one at a time to eliminate which one might be the culprit. [/font][font=OPEN SANS, ARIAL, SANS-SERIF]Good luck and let us know what you find.[/font]Everyone should believe in something. I believe Ill just go fishing!
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