[BillBo]

Is it sold?

[BillBo]

Boat is sold. Just spoke with seller.

[BillBo]

I wonder about the durability, which would seem to favor the MG. I often fish lakes with standing timber where it is a must to bump into the trees and stobs to get bit.

[BillBo]

Too high as indicated by rooster tail?

[BillBo]

I think you are in the right ballpark. Cautious buyers will want to get a feel for engine condition. If you can get compression test done and show consistent and good readings (110-120) on all cylinders, that should help move it more quickly. Age of batteries and condition of seats and tires may also be questioned.

[BillBo]

I’m wondering if I have a similar problem to rfhbrando with the 2015 Puma I just bought. Port tank had some discoloration on the top (see pic) when I got it.  Last week I filled that tank until the pump kicked off. I went to the lake for a few hours but never drew gas from the port tank. When I got home I noticed a small amount of gas (wetness) on the top of the tank. So maybe there was a little gas in the vent hose? But since there is no evidence of this ever happening on the starboard tank, I wonder if the vent valve or the hose itself is leaking. Is there something I can check before I take it to a repair shop for diagnosis?

 

 

[BillBo]

I put a shot of liquid nails on the exposed thread area of the lag bolts the last time that I found them needing to be tightened.

[BillBo]

Thanks, Matt. I am aware of the fix(es) for the swelling. I assume that BCB experts have not responded yet as they are busy supporting their MLF pros up in Wisconsin. I am not the greatest with mechanical stuff, but given instructions I can usually make a repair without causing harm to the components.

First I am trying to understand if the looseness is reason to suspect an issue with the valve assembly. What would cause that assembly to be loose?  How does one tighten it? The forked retaining clip doesn’t seem to do anything as far as I can tell.  It would be helpful to see a diagram of the assembly above and below the tank top and how that assembly fits into the tank. Yes, the leak may be around the o-ring, but replacing the o-ring does not seem to be the cure if the assembly is not tight with the tank.  As I said, there is no play at all with the valve on the other tank.

The “repair” kit I received from BCB consists simply of a large washer with a rubber gasket, the large aluminum retaining nut, and a tube of gasoline compatible sealant. The only instructions given were for replacing the existing nut with the washer and nut and using the sealant. That alone would not seem to correct the problem if the leak is around that o-ring and due to the looseness of the assembly.  Perhaps the kit was supplied with the idea that the corrective measure involves removing that large nut and then somehow tightening the assembly from underneath, then replacing the nut and using the gasketed washer. The present aluminum nut is very tight on the tank so I hesitate to try to crack that loose without understanding what causes the assembly to be loose and how it can be tightened.

Best,

Bill B.

 

[BillBo]

SLumpp, Thanks for the suggestion. I hope to get back to the boat later this week.  I will try pressuring that tank with the bulb. However, I think mine is only leaking when the tank is fairly full and gets under pressure. And the boat seems to run fine on that tank so far.  But of course having fuel spit out into the bilge is never good.  Another suggestion said to try bending the “E” retaining clip slightly, which evidently is the only thing that keeps the valve assembly/O-ring firmly in place. There seems to be some play up and down around the E clip.

[BillBo]

Bass Cat Boats:

They have a kit to repair these tanks in the Service Department. They just need your serial number to send one out.

Thanks, BCB. Per first post, I already received that kit, but as stated I hesitate to go that route as I do not think it will solve the problem. I guess might need to pressure test the tank to determine exact source of leak. But clearly its around the base of that assembly or around the large O-ring above the top of tank.

[BillBo]

What Wade said. The drain tubing sections for the cup holder and TM recess, which direct water down into the v of the hull probably came off. I found that to be the case on the 2015 Puma I bought recently. That tubing can swell and become a loose fit. I installed new pieces of tubing  on my Puma and presto, no leaks into lockers.

[BillBo]

The cup holder has a nipple on the underside of the hole. Should be able to pry the cupholder off with minimal damage to gelcoat using a wide wood chisel. I like that cupholder there and it actually serves as  a convenient portal to underneath the TM. I apply a small bead of marine grade silicone around it when reinserting the cup holder so it is easy to pull it out again if needed. When you see the nipple it will be clear as to the tubing size needed. Sorry for your troubles.

[BillBo]

I believe for charging a phone or other device.

[BillBo]

I do recall some discussion on that a while back, “2010 Puma tire wear” explains some of it.  I am careful to avoid curbs as much as possible but cant rule out that it might have happened once or twice. If spindles are bent, I assume that rotating the wheel will show out of round?

BCB: What do you mean about the idler arm bolts possibly being too far gone? Splines on axle damaged?

[BillBo]

Trailer has torsion axles and trailer is perfectly level when hooked up. Definitely will rotate the tires.

[Author]

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