I’ve provided videos to the dealer to start with showing the slack movement without the pins, one showing having to jockey the tongue to get the pins to slide in, and one showing the slack movement of the tongue with the pins in place. I really believe the amount of movement in the hinge on my trailer with the pins in place show poor workmanship and/or design in locating the hinge on the tongue to allow so much slop up and down in the hinge. I really expected better quality in a Bass Cat trailer.
Cajunhunter67:
I know this has been an ongoing issue with your trailer. I can tell you my swing away on my 2016 PII moves up and down around 3/4 inch with all the pins installed. The strap does pull the tongue up, but in reality, once the jack is removed (boat loaded on the truck ball) the weight of the boat is doing the loading of the tongue more than the strap.
As Red said above, maybe put up a video. Your movement sounds excessive. Its moving up and down quite a bit. What about side to side? If you grab the tongue, can you move it side to side? ( Strap loose)
Yes it is an issue, so yours has 3/4″ movement up and down. I don’t see any real movement side to side in my tongue. Okay with the winch strap loose and you are driving down the road and you hit a dip in the road the vehicle and the trailer will move up and down and the hinge will flex your 3/4 of an inch without the strap being tight. So with the strap tight hit the same dip in the road what is preventing the hinge movement if any? That potential movement could cause cracks in the welds on the hinge from the stress of weight transfer to the hinge from the road surface. The more slop in the hinge more potential for damage to the hinge over time on the trailer.
Its the outside transom led light it just barely glows now it did work at one time. It is not bright enough to see anything even in the dark. I took delivery 16th of February of my Eyra and it is now only 5 months since then and I would of thought it would of lasted longer than this before having trouble with some of the compartment lights and the transom light. Its over a 200 miles round trip to the dealer for them to repair them and if I would have to leave the boat or they have to order parts, well it all adds up. Thought if I had a wiring diagram I could trace the wiring and find a loose wire, bad wire connector not crimped right could save $$ on fuel to dealer. Did find improperly crimped terminals on the Bass Cat light under the console after it quit working. So there’s a history of improperly crimped wiring terminals and I suspect there’s more to be found as time goes and other electrical problems arise. A wiring diagram sure would be helpful. There’s got to be shop drawings surly they are not wired by memory only.
Thanks that will be a big help in tracing the wires…
Roostertail1964:
Does anyone know if the Motorguide X15 trolling motor head & shaft will work in the mounting bracket previously used with my Motorguide Tour Edition 109 36 volt? I just ordered a new Motorguide X15, 36 volt, 45” shaft and was hoping to not have to drill additional holes!
I mounted a Xi5 on an 2019 Eyra using the same mounting holes for a standard MoterGuide in the boat. You will need a LiftSaver Plus Quick Detach Trolling Motor Mount anyway that is what I used. You can find it on Ebay, works great. You locate the holes from the boat in the bottom plate of the LiftSaver mount. The LiftSaver mount has 2 removable pins to allow you to lift and swing the trolling motor back preventing the trolling motor from hitting the front roller on the trailer due to the over hang of the trolling motor. In my opinion the best mount built for the Xi5 trolling motor.
I have the clip style that are on a beaded chain. How do these attach to the style I now have??
I’m not sure whether new gasket will fix the leak either but the leak appears to be between the gasket and the fiberglass. The water would have to be deep to go over the top of the gasket and between the bottom of the seat. There is a ring on the underneath side of the seat where the seat makes contact with the top of the gasket. So the water has just about Gotta be leaking where it contacts the fiberglass, where the gasket slides on to the edge around the cutout itself. I would like to try a new gasket hopefully it will fix the water leak in that compartment.
Bass Cat Boats:
We would be glad to send it. Contact Service and they will help, let them know the online moderators suggested it.
Ok I’ll give them a call tomorrow. Do you have their number? Thanks
Louie6014:
I had some water entry like that in my caracal, new bubble seals resolved it. I also put a smidge of silicone sealant into that pinch area where the seal bites on.
Did you put the sealant all the way around or just where the leak was occurring?? I hope that I don’t have to use any sealant to stop the leak and the new seal will cure the leak..
Bass Cat Boats:
We would be glad to send it. Contact Service and they will help, let them know the online moderators suggested it.
I want to thank Bass Cat for their help with a new gasket. You can’t beat the service and especially thanks to Alan for taking care of me and my boat. That’s why I bought a Bass Cat a great boat with great customer service….
Cajunhunter67:
I would add silicone under the gasket. This would keep any water protrusion from seeping under it.
Don
I’ll consider your suggestion when I see how tight the fit is with the new gasket as I install it. There’s nothing more frustrating with a compartment that is suppose to be dry and you find items in there ruined by being wet.
barrigj:
Following, as I have the same issue, although I swapped out Lowrance Hook to a Lowrance Elite Ti2 and now the speedometer does not work.
Any help in reconnecting would be great!
Not to hijack this thread, but I have a similar but different problem with the speedometer. Mine was hooked up with the nmea 0183 output from my Lowrance HDS-12 Carbon and the speedometer set to GPS worked great. Everything worked fine until I installed a Mercury Vessel View link which gives me the engine information along with GPS speed. My smartcraft 1000 speedometer quit working. I have switched it over to work off of the Pitot which is very inaccurate. As far as I know the nmea 0183 from the HDS is still hooked up. Question is how do I get the speedometer back to working off the GPS again??
Is this jacket still available??
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