If it helps, I push the fill livewell lever and run the fill pump about 30 seconds or so after I catch a keeper fish. Once the aerator or recirc pump is turned on it will take care of the fish until the livewell fills through the fill valve. Your pumps must be super quiet as I can hear the hum when mine are running…
I had a similar problem with mine on the bow. It was a voltage drop through the main power switch. I cleaned and clamped the spade connectors at the main switch and it cured a couple of other problems. I always noticed a low voltage on the BP101 dash compared to true voltage at the batteries. Cleaning those connectors cured the problem. A quick way to tell if its low voltage is to look at the voltage display on your Lowrance unit. If its around 11 volts it will die. FWIW, mine would power off when I hit the starter on the big motor to move from one spot to another, it never got as bad as you describe but it eventually would have…
Brad, is this unit factory installed? If so the small spark you saw probably blew the Lowrance fuse behind the accessory panel. IIRC there is a indicator light on the acc switch. Does it come on when the switch is on? As far as I could tell on mine there was not a main fuse to the accessory switch, since it fed through the main switch I am assuming it is protected by one of the breakers at the main switch. Again, if low voltage is the problem look at connections. Wiring usually doesnt go bad unless someone messes with it so forget about broken wires and concentrate on something like a corroded connector or possibly a switch that got water inside and is not passing current properly. The fact that your unit would power on and then die indicates it has a connection that isnt loose rather than the voltage is too low to properly operate the unit. Check the voltage at the accessory switch, if low then check voltage at the output of the main switch, if it is good there then the connections between need cleaned, if the voltage on the output side of the main switch is low check the input side of it, if it is low check both sides of the breaker, if it is still low check the connections at the battery. FWIW, if the main switch output is low you should be having problems with your lights, bilge and aerator pumps and other accessories. The voltage drop from the battery should not be more than .5 volt from the back of the boat to the front, if there is you need to find the point of high resistance. Good luck.BTW, do not rule out high resistance on the ground side, the problem may not be the source voltage but the common return. Find a common ground and take all your voltage readings from it. By keeping a common ground for testing you eliminate any chance for error…
I added a car alarm to my PII. It was easy since the rod boxes were lighted. I set the alarm to sense a change in voltage at the battery and when any lid was opened the alarm would sound. I also used a motion sensor but found it a little too sensitive when left in a boat slip. A good wake could set it off. FWIW, if someone climbed on the trailer while parked on or off the hitch the motion sensor would set the alarm off, work perfect. Anymore you can get alarms that will page you if you want to spend the extra dollars. IMO, its worth it if it saves one rod and reel…
Thanks guys, Im leaving tomorrow afternoon and hope to be fishing Wed. Hope the fish are biting….
I would imagine it would be difficult for the factory to install a network in a boat ordered without electronics. There are too many variables to deal with. They would have to know which electronics and what devices would be connected to the networkFWIW, it took me about 20 minutes to run the Lowrance network on my PII. I networked a LCX11C hd to a LMS520C and added a fuel flow sensor and a temp sensor to the network. The biggest problems I had was find a hidden area to drill the holes big enough for the conectors to fit through. Networking two units together is pretty simple as long as you use T connectors and the terminators. If you try to connect the two units with one cable it will not work.
Im with Basscat on this. I usually take a wire tie and tie all the battery leads together when removing the battery to keep one of the wires from getting lost. Count the number of wires connected to the negative post and compare the number with the positive post. If you have 3 black wires to neg and 2 red wires to pos then you are missing a positive wire. If you have 3 positive wires and 2 black negative wires then you are missing the negative wire. Both numbers should match unless you have installed strange equipment. If that fails remove the battery and locate all loose wires. Im willing to bet there is a wire under the battery that got overlooked. I am pretty sure the original number of wires would have been 3 on each besides the heavy battery cables. 1 goes to the onboard charger, one goes to the power bus at the transom and one goes to the motor trim and tilt wiring. From what you are describing is you dont have the wires connected for the main boat power. The circuit breaker that is being discussed at the battery is a small square item with 2 lugs with wires on them. That breaker has a tab on the side that pops out when the breaker has been tripped. If you find this all you have to do is push it back in. If you have separate trolling motor batteries you will see similar breakers on them, that should help you know what to look for at the main battery.
Ive been there already on my PII. Contact parts for a new valve. They are pretty easy to change out. FWIW, I would try to back flush it to make sure no debris is in the valve causing it to malfunction. When I changed my valve I also replaced the hoses. I split the hoses with a knife when removing them to avoid breaking any nipples on pumps or valves…
As far as I know the red fittings are the new network fittings and they are the standard for this year. Lowrance used the larger blue connectors until early this year. That was one of my biggest complaints because they fielded the new connectors and did not make a adapter cable available until around June. I have a LCX111 unit on the dash and purchased a 520C and could not network them together because of the network cable changes. All said though I installed the EP-10 fuel flow sensor and it is fairly accurate. You can keep track of fuel used on trips, yearly and monitor fuel flow per hour when running. Hope this helps…
I ran aviation fuel in my 62 Galaxie because it would ping severly on 92 stuff. My compression was 11:1 at that time. I replaced the cam with a higher lift and duration to lower the dynamic compression. It runs better and will run on pump gas. My suggestion for you would be to determine your current compression and contact a cam manufacturer for a cam that would work for your application. There are 5-600 hp cars out there that run fine on pump gas and you should be able to make yours do the same….
Trust me, it will be cheaper to order a new fender from Basscat. I had a tire throw the tread and damage mine a few years ago and it was cheaper and quicker to order a new one and install it. My replacement was a perfect match to the original one. If you insist on having it repaired you may want to check with Truman Fiberglass Repair just west of Clinton on hwy 7. They have my PII there for repairs to the bottom and I expect it to be perfect when it is returned to me. They have a good reputation for quality work…
You can do it, its not that hard. You can tie a pull string to the cables at the engine and pull the steering cables out from the cockpit area. You can tie the new cables to the pull string and feed them back to the rear fairly easily. Replacing the helm is pretty straightforward if you have any mechanical ability at all. Just follow the instructions providded with the kit.
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Yep, check the wiring on the oil reservoir cap. My cap wiring was twisted pretty tight and over the years vibration wore through the insulation and my alarm went off. I replaced the cap (not cheap) and made sure the wires arent twisted so tight. Also, there is a red led at the bottom of your air box at the front of the motor. Check to see if it is lit when the alarm goes off, if it is then the water alarm is the culprit. Unplug the water sensor and try again, if the alarm continues to sound and the let is lit then its deeper than operator maintenance and needs to see a dealer. If the light is out and the oil reservoir cap is ok then again, it needs to see a dealer. Hope its a simple fix…
You can look for an alarm that senses a change in battery voltage. Once the rod boxes are opened and the light comes on the alarm will sound. I have one on my PII and it works great. Installation on these type are pretty simple. I also installed the vibration sensor but it will set itself off when in a boat slip in the water. If the water is rough you will get false alarms but if the boat is on the trailer and someone gets on it or jostles it around it will set the alarm off…
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