C130 wrote:What jack plate, is it hydraulic? I have an Atlas an run it around 7 on the gauge most of the time which is around 2 1/2 inches on the jack plate indicator. Sounds like your motor is too high, I dont have any steering torque issues. Same boat and motor for me, 2017 Eyra and 250 Pro XS.Manual jack plateSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
glen11 wrote:I also just got a 2017 Eyra with a Merc250Pro. You first need to follow break in for the motor. There are a couple of articles that will be good for you to read and can be found in the archieves. First one is on chine walking and how to drive it. Another good article is on how to measure propshaft to pad correctly. Everyone will want to know that measurement. If you already know that then you are ahead of the game.Yeah, after I wrote this I read both of those articles in the frequently asked questions section and have come to the conclusion that I just need more seat time in this boat. The only thing that made me wonder about the set up was the water pressure because my other boat with the same motor had much higher water pressure even at idleSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PhilAddison wrote:Sounds like you need a lot more time behind the wheel. Normal idle water pressure is almost unreadable on the gauge its so low. Main thing is you have water pissing out of the pee hole and no alarms or engine temp between 100 and 130 or so. As the boat speed increases the water pressure will increase. At 5000 rpms your water pressure sounds OK but I dont know what speed youre running. Trimmed all the way down your water pressure will be less than running fairly hooked up. Hydraulic steering is not power steering. It is true that if youre engine is too high steering g torque is much greater. If you have a hydraulic jack plate then lower it some. If you have a manual plate dont touch it as it has been set by the plant for most avg applications. I doubt there is anything you need to do at this point and until you get familiar with the boat do you need to worry about jack plate height or props. Good luckI totally get what youre saying but with my other boat I got much better water pressure. Thats why Was wondering if the motor was a bit high for the way I distribute weight in my boat. Totally totally totally need more seat time in this boat. It handles turns like its on rails.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Midnight Rider wrote:Generally, when idleing, you will see very little water pressure on the gauge, if any. As long as its peeing, youre OK there. Also, if this is your first BassCat (and a fine boat you have in the Eyra), the hull does not need as much trim as many other boats out there to get the same or better performance. If you have at least 12psi wide open, youre OK…15psi is about “normal”, depending on boat, load, and setup. If you are experiencing a lot of steering torque when wide open, then youre either trimming too much or your engine is too high. Your rooster tail should NEVER be higher than the engine cowling in a BassCat. If it is, and you have to do that to get bow lift, then you might have too much weight up front, OR you might need to look into alternative props. Learn to drive the boat as is first though.After last lots of information on this post I took the boat out last night and figured out that I was trimming it up way too high. Also one of my club members used to own The same boat and told me where I should be as far as the trim goes. I also spoke to the dealer and he said my readings on the water pressure were fine. My previous boat just had higher water pressure than this one. Problem resolved thanks for your input.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Soooooo Worth the wait. I stepped out of a Ranger Z521 and into that Eyra and couldnt be happier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bass Cat Boats wrote:This post was copied from another board where a consumer had a question, which creates another question and etc. this should answer all resin questions through 2016 model year. #9 Today, 10:18 AM Obviously this is due to interest in a used boat. Easy answers are not easy, as further questions develop on other models and what about this model year. We continue to be transparent and pardon the lengthy answer for all. Some of this is archived here and we know its in parts. Resins have been an ongoing development since the 2004 MACT regulation was applied by EPA. The first boats post MACT were AOC Hydropel low HAP (VOC) Vinyl Ester and that proved to not perform to our preference, compared to what was previously used. We tested most every variant of low HAP VE before MACT and settled on AOC as the best in our results at that time. The previous VE resin was run from 1998 through 2003 and was an absolutely great pure vinyl ester across the board, used throughout on all products. Recession times set in with 911 and competition using much cheaper products post 2000 to 2004, or 2010, is all that prevents this today. Paying more than twice as much for resin and again bumping glass costs for AOC is not appealing to consumers price shopping. We have large dollars in better product and just two weeks ago a three time BCB owners was using price to navigate a Premium model for $3,000 less in another brand, while not shopping apples to apples. We understand the relationship to price, products and quality, though price alone is no comparative. In 2007 resins were changed to an extremely tough VE Barrier coat behind the Gelcoat and the most widely used (#1) marine resin, at that time, in the marine business, this was another AOC product. The barrier coat was a mess to deal with while it aged our facilites and equipment prematurely, worked great though was just to difficult and could not be cleaned once cures were initiated. It proved too costly on maintenance. In 2009 we stepped back into an AOC Iso blended hybrid that was supported with HK VE Barrier that proved out in testing. Next in fall of 2012 we had AOC develop our own hybrid resin that was from our spec window with different ingredients and properties, bought then as an X-2013 Experimental until recently in 2015 they gave it another number. Our sister company Nautique is presently testing this resin for their application. To date it is a BCB specific product. This remains used in all parts and rear laminates, plus all Advantage and Vision models. It has worked better than any resin to this time frame since MACT. We do remain using the HK Vinyl Ester barrier coat in a 20 to 25 mil thickness behind the Gelcoat to protect from crazing and permeation. In 2015 (2014 actual) model year we moved the Premium line to AME-6001 pure vinyl ester (VE) resins on the first laminates. This resin is not a hybrid and not available earlier. This then raised those resin cost by appx. 240% on some of these laminates all were over 215% more, more than double. Obviously we felt it is much better! The product became available after Ashland purchased the product line and the tech specs from DOW. Durakene was a solid VE resin that had to be promoted on site and was difficult to use, plus expensive. Ashland was able to bring out newer AME-6001 and AME-6441 as a result of the research they bought from DOW, previously used in Durakene. And we never were AME-5000(1) or AME-4000(1) fans as they were not pure, thugh a hybrid of some VE blended, they failed every time in our testing and felt they were more hype than guts.We remain using the same HK Barrier coat in all applications. Thats more than you knew and More than any other company will dare share. We will always continue to develop the bets laminate structure and shoot for above 38% Fiberglass content. Presently we have recently tested weight sampling on 8 different boat models with our summer intern (Kyle – UofA), his results display between 40.% and 43.1% fiberglass content by weight with the rest being resin. An extremely high ratio for open laminates. We dont believe most production shops operate with this efficiency. Actually none we know of run this high of a glass ratio. There you have it answered and future developing questions answered as well. BCBThats awesome! This is why I chose a BCB this time and in the futureSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here’s mine
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I had the same problem and I just glued an extra layer of the foam to the lid rather than trying to double up on the seal. This makes it watertight and doesn’t put any extra stress on the hinges. I have not had water in it since.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bill2e wrote:I have the same boat…….I had big issues first time filling. Here is what works for me.Turn the handle around so the back is pointed to the bow and it works perfect. Good luckYou are dead on! And I can’t believe how easy it fills in that position.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bass Cat Boats wrote:They would have to custom order the parts and you would have holes to fill in the existing deck as the hinge holes won’t line up. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Shap from La wrote:IMG_2415.JPGIMG_2417.JPGPictures arent great and Ill get some better ones but thought Id throw a couple up. I love it so far. Chris CoupelPaulina, La.Looks real close to mine. I like itSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kschuhk wrote:Is a normal setup from factory for trolling batteries to only be wired to trolling motor? Are all other electronics (motor, bow and console graphs, radio, lights, etc) to be wired to cranking battery?Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYesSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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