Donnie cant believe youre selling the Red Baron! This is the cleanest 06 Puma youll find! The pictures dont do that red justice, never seen another one like it! Shes fast and catches fish too! Sad to see her go!
I used a heat gun in my garage last year in December. It takes some time but the heat gun made a ton of difference. I followed this up with an orbital buffer and mothers scratch remover. After this step I used a buffer and premium wax and the boat looked like brand new. It takes some time but I was afraid to let someone else do it because Im pretty picky about my boat. A lot of this will depend on the quality of the wrap material that was used. Good luck!
Boat is sold!
My P4 did the same thing last fall. Luckily it broke at the weighin as I was draining the live wells to take my the fish to the scales. All parts are available from the website and its a pretty simple install thanks to the open bilge area. It took approx an hour to repair. I would recommend an electricians fish snake. Look at the valve itself before you begin. The open and close arm on the valve itself was rubbing against the side of the bilge which caused it to bind and break the control lever at the console. A simple shim will free it up if this is an issue. Good luck!
Pm sent
Okay, first and foremost, thank you Basscat for your help on this so far.I contacted a local Mercury dealer and they have an updated gateway adapter part number that comes with a junction box. I was under the impression after a call to the plant that my 2013 Puma FTD came with this junction box so I looked under the dash where I thought that box would be and I did not see it. The Mercury tech also told me that there should be a data cable for smart craft from the engine to the console that plugs into the junction box. I looked under the cowl and I believe I found where this data cable should be plugged in and it has what appears to be a cap on it. So to save time and possibly more confusion is there someone at the plant that I can call with my serial number and possibly clear some of this confusion up that I have created.Im still under the impression that this is a fairly simple DIY task, I just want to be sure to get everything I need being that these things have to be ordered. too much research possibly…….Thanks again!
Thanks, Ill wait until next week to reach out to him.
Forgive me for asking a potentially dumb question; what is the benefit of the extra hole?What boat are you running? Im see from the picture that you have the torque master II lower unit so I assume youre running a 250 Pro XS?I currently run a 2013 Puma FTD with a 26 Fury and or 27 Fury depending on load and water temp. Speed, lift, holeshot, stability no issues.Am I missing something?
I get the more more exhaust part, guess it all depends on your set up.
So I like where youre going with this potentially. By your statement Im hoping that there is a retro fit for the Smartstick? Ive seen it on their website…….
I spoke with Seastar today and learned that they had a run of their replacement sending units that were wired incorrectly when they were built. This issue causes the gauge to read incorrectly and not able to be calibrated. Wanted to pass this along in case there are any others are having possibly the same issue. DK3005 is the replacement part number if needed.
Thanks, Darren! I was betting that most advice would hit after the Sealy event!
Well any body else want to willing to give any advise now that the BBS is over? Again just heading down for a few days of fun.
Thanks guys!
So I may have a lead on one. A friend of mine had a 2006 Puma that was Candy Apple Red. He sold that boat a couple of years back but he had taken his console off and I believe still has it. Now from what I remember his color was fairly unique. If you can verify with Basscat your color I will see if it matches. It should be compatible.
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