You might want to try the Aquabuff product they have in the parts section, under the boat maintenance tab on the left. It sounds like the right product. I was surprised by the $75.00 price, and I cant tell how big the bucket is. I dont really want 5 gallons of the stuff. Rick maybe adding the size info would be helpful, I tried the magnify tool but there is nothing on the front of the bucket.
Hmmmm interesting. How does it do in gravel or dirt? I find my boat is nearly impossible to move side to side to line it up on the hitch more than an two inches or so. A real pain. I shop and drive are concrete, but pretty much every where else i seem to disconnect is in gravel or dirt and my current one doesnt roll at all.
I would ditto what was said about Arizona. On the Colorado system, Lake Martinez and Ferguson…. fish those reeds. Get out early, and knock off early. Put in at Fishermans Landing. Its all about flipping the shade, and hotter it gets, be near moving water…. The ticket is sprayed grass sweet beavers, flipping 25lb mono. It slides through the reeds better and they hit it better than braid. In California if its SoCal hit Castaic or Casitas both turn out record fish. Fishing swim baits in trout pattern in either on flurocarbon. These are both very clear bodies of water. If you see fish busting the top, it can be either stripers or LM. Try a 4inch basstrix flashtrix in smelt pattern or clear with a black back. Rig it on a 1/8ounce weighted hook, and 20lb braid. You want to fish it wake style, with only the bait remaining in the water and nice V as youre retriving it. Its money. Take your jigs too in natural colors. You will likely need to dropshot any bedding fish. Try dropshotting a small worm on light line as long as you have enough open water to fight the fish. Search around enough and you should find some bedding fish in both areas.
@GRRR884….. chargers catching on fire??…. sorry but I need to see it to believe it. Before the charger would catch on fire, the protection circuits and fuses would blow…. I think if a charger did catch on fire that it had little to do with battery t
Do you have a 12V test light? If not you should. This wont be the last time you will need it. Check youtube.com for lots of videos on how to use one. First rule of troubleshooting:1. Divide and conquer. Disconnect the trailer at the truck, then with a buddy operating the brakes turn signals and lights in the truck, you will connect the alligator clip of your 12V test light to ground and probe each pin in the connector on the truck. I would as BCB mentioned look specifically at the Green wire but it may be to your advantage to test each pin to understand what each one does. ( write it down) In an LED tail light, when the brakes are applied it usually just turns on more LEDs to increase the brightness. If you have power from the truck that is the same for both sides,( one connector powers both sides) Typically ground, right and left running, and right and left turn/brake 5 wires total, maybe 6 if you have a backup light. But this will tell you its not the truck. Reconnect. Keep the buddy in the cab. Second rule of troubleshooting. 2. Substitution ( compare with known good) At the tail lights if you can pull each assembly out or reach behind you can probe through the wires on each side again with the buddy in the truck again going through each operation. Youre mainly focused on that brake light condition so again as BCB has identified its likely a green wire at the light. If when the brakes are applied probing this wire, you get no light on your test light, you have confirmed that you do not have power to that point, you will need to find the point in the wire by probing where its either open or grounding. Its almost always at connection, or areas where it can get pinched, or where the wire insulator can be stripped away from wear, so look for it. If you do have your 12V test light come on at the light, you will need to replace that tail light assembly. Good Luck, Steve
@George, thanks… can I redeem the attaboy for an answer to my thread on shifters.
Catdude28. Thanks for the idea, will look at that. Minn Kota does say in their installation guide not to mount it above the batteries as the gases that are expelled will cause corrosion in the unit. Im wondering if anyone has installed it under the passenger seat as mentioned. @Negative Nancy and dbasketman. Are you suggesting replacing the Ring Terminals that you attach to the batteries? If so why. See photo added to original post.
Ah! Well thats not the response I expected. Not sure how many folks take the approach of buying an onboard charger and using it as a portable, but I can see it happening. Thank you for your response. Its not what I am trying to achieve.
Scubaman is that a Cougar? I have not seen batteries turned that way in a cougar. Not sure it would even fit, but hey everything is possible. I have two openings so the middle has a deck crossbar where the compartment doors mount there. Mounting them there has possibilities.
A typical charger has two leads, a black/negative and red/positive. If this is your case, its likely that its a 12/24/36 volt charger but if you want to be sure connecting a simple volt meter between the leads will tell you for sure if there is not a voltage selector switch. Set your meter on Vdc and choose a range above the expected voltage. Most meters have a 20 vdc setting. This would be what you would choose for a 12volt output. if it does not show anything on the meter go to a higher setting say 200vdc. Connect your meter lead across the charger leads and if its a 12 volt charger you should see in the range of 14.5vdc. If it is a 24volt charger you will see roughtly 29Vdc. A charger will always be a few volts higher than the load it is charging. Which means if what you wrote above about 24 volts means a 24volt charger (and your sure) you would only charge your 2 12volt batteries together. Two 12volt batteries wired in series produce a 24volt supply. If you are not sure about if they are already wired in series, you will see a positive lead, (likely red) from your trolling motor going to one batteries postive terminals. The negative terminal on that batter will be tied with a short jump to the positive terminal on the second batter, and finally the second batteries negative terminal will be connected to a black or negative lead of your trolling motor. You will connect the battery charger between the postive lead of the first batter and the negative lead of the second battery. The same connections your trolling motor makes. You should be able to safely charge a 24volt battery supply in your 40amp mode. Watch your leads for excessive heat and check repeatedly. If its not a smart charger, I would remove the batteries and put them on the ground outside for the first go round. Never put a 24volt charger across a single 12 battery. guaranteed be a hazard. Finally buy a six pack for a friend that knows it better than you. There is no substitute for experience.
Have owned an electric steer…never again. Fine for trout and walleye fishermen but hated it for bassfishing. Just too slow, real PIA. Like Minn Kota products, its just not the right application for bass fishermen.
Im sorry I should have added, this. Many have become obsolete…. exactly my problem the interface is not compatible with newer model radios. The Sony, Kenwood are both in this situation. I do see a clarion I have not seen before, but not fond of this brand, so was hoping someone installed something very recently.
So I added a second photo of the mostly finished product. Need to clean it up and paint it now. So I just came back to the computer and saw the other responses. Heres what I did. The top boss with the bolt head still on it, I knew I could turn it …sqeeeeeeeeak! But I shot pblaster in and let is set then started heating with a propane torch, then with my breaker bar and socket on that head i moved it back and forth and got it freer slowly and eventually was able to quickly tap it out with a punch from below. Now I had the top hole open so I could slide a punch down through the hole and get a square hit on the piece that had the nut and threads on it in the bottom boss and heated it and was able to get a good crack on it but not before I took my grinder and removed some flaring that had occurred when it broke. Finally the middle boss was the real pain in the butt. I heated it and tried and tried, with a 4lb then 6lb sledge and no joy. So I started drilling. Sucessive smaller to larger wholes with the final bit being the same size as the bolt. Got it all rust free, aligned and the bolt drops right in. Since the day is shot, on to project 2 and 3… re-weld(grind out and weld) the arm that you see in the second picture to the left that holds the roller that the bow travels onto. The front weld is cracking and showing rust. Then a fresh bleed on the breaks.Last edited by shastss on April 2nd, 2016, 9:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
It actually does not thread through, Just acts as a pin, not really sure of the specs as to why a bolt was used but it appears to be a #5 Hardness so I used marine bearing grease, but thank you I forgot to mention this on reassembly.
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